Concrete Stain Tips

Advice on Patching Concrete and Using Decorative Taping to Create a Border.

2012-02-01T11:33:00.001-06:00

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Dear Earl,

Sorry, I have a few more questions.

Hello Kimberly,

No problem at all. We're happy to help all that we can.

1) Would you recommend cleaning with the TSP prior to patching the tack strip holes or patch and then clean?

A. - You need to ensure that concrete is as clean and dry and dust free as possible to ensure the best chances for the patch to stay in place. The sealer and wax will help to hold it down, but if the patch loses its bond then it will pop out, so there is no replacement for good and adequate prep. Therefore, yes. I would use the T.S.P. and water to thoroughly clean the concrete to be patched first. Be sure and rinse it a couple times with clean water afterwards.

NOTE: A little extra advice just in case you need it. After you apply the patching material and smooth it out as best that you can, you need to let it dry and cure for at least a day or two, more if it's curing slowly. Then you will use a concrete rubbing stone to rub it and smooth it out, which will feather it into the concrete. It's like sanding bondo on a car body repair to smooth it out, which helps it to disappear into the surrounding area. The rubbing stone can be found in the concrete tools area at your local lumber yard or home improvement store. If going to a local home improvement store then the concrete tools are usually down at the lumber end with the sacks of concrete and concrete patching materials. It looks like a small rectangular cinder block with a handle on it, and it will make the patch blend in and smooth down quickly and easily.

2) Also which do you think would be the best method of applying the stain with the tape, using the brush method or the 2 light coats of stain?

A. - If you're going to use a different color or do multiple coats on the border, or certain areas, then I would brush on the border and/or decorative areas, and then spray the rest of the floor. If you're using a darker color on the border, or say, opposing blocks - you can apply the darker color with the brush and then spray the entire floor with the lighter color, including over the darker brushed on areas because the darker color will overpower the lighter color anyway.

If you're using the tape as a design in the floor but using the same color overall then I would just spray it all and forego the brush.

NOTE: Be sure and rub the tape down really well, especially along the edges, and be sure to not saturate the tape too much because the stain will try to get underneath it, which is why you drag the stain up to the tape when brushing, and why you spray directly down over the tape with two lighter coats, rather than spraying at an angle or spraying heavier coats.

Thanks for all of your help!

Best regards,

I hope this helps,

ConcreteCamouflage.com

Questions about doing a floor that had carpet before.

2012-01-31T11:26:00.001-06:00

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Q. - We are planning on staining a basement bedroom floor, using Concrete Camouflage products, and have a few questions.

Hello Kimberly,

Answers follow the questions.

1) Is the only difference in the Artist grade and the standard (1 coat needed vs. 2)? How many coats do you recommend?

A. - Yes, that is the only difference, The Artist grade is a one coat stain (although you can do additional coats for a darker look) and the Standard grade requires two coats minimum. Other than that, the only other difference is the color choices.

2) The concrete was poured in 1968, will there be enough lime left to stain nicely?

A. - There should be, though you never know for sure without doing a test area first, like in a closet or an out of the way place. You could purchase some sample sizes first to test not only the chemical reaction, but also the colors. Due to the age of the concrete I would suggest only using the Artist grade concrete stain by Concrete Camouflage for sure.

When you do your tests, do one test with one coat and also one test with two coats, of each color that you're testing, to see if one coat will be adequate or if it will require two coats due to the age of the concrete.

3) What is the best way to remove some paint spots from the concrete?

A. - You can use a citrus stripper, paint stripper, paint thinner, or Xylene(though it's very flammable and requires adequate ventilation), or you can use a heavy duty glue remover which also works well. You may still need to lightly sand the floor and if so, you can use a small belt sander, a rented floor sander like they use on wood floors, or even a floor buffing machine with the sanding disks.

NOTE: If the paint spots are small and only a few, then you may want to just strip them as well as you can with a citrus or paint stripper, and then if you do still see the paint spots after staining, then you can use a children's water paint set (like you get at the dollar store for the water paint coloring books) so that you can mix the colors to blend with the stain and then lightly paint over the spots and feather it in to camouflage the spots. Then seal over it to lock it in and complete the camouflaging technique. Once the sealer and wax is on, then the colors will blend underneath and look natural. Simple and inexpensive camouflaging that works well.

4) Do you recommend the C5p32 degreaser instead of a local hardware store brand?

A. - I would only use degreaser if the floor has oil or grease on it and/or in the pores of the concrete. Otherwise just cleaning it well with T.S.P. (tri-sodium-phosphate) will be enough. If there's no oil or grease, which you can usually tell by wetting the floor down to see if the water soaks right in or beads up or just kinda sits there awhile before soaking in, and also looking for discoloration. If you do decide to use a degreaser then I would suggest that you use Concrete Stain Prep (C.S.P.) by Concrete Camouflage, as it was designed to be used specifically when using concrete stain. It not only degreases but also cleans, strips, and removes dirt, light duty glues, water base paints, and more, that other degreasers can't touch. It can even be used to remove tire marks from rubber tires. It will outperform all other degreaser products, and it's inexpensive as well. Regardless of which degreaser that you use, you will still need to final clean with T.S.P. and then final rinse a couple times with clean water.

5) What is the best way to hide tack strip holes from carpet? We will be using concrete filler to fix the divets. We were thinking we would need to use a darker stain. Any suggestions would be great. We are debating between Canon or Maya stone for the main part of the floor but not sure what to do around the edges for the tack strips. We are also going to use the cc3mt tape to make lines.

A. - Using a darker stain color is a great idea, and a common practice, as the concrete patching material will most likely stain a different color. You should use some of the patching material on a piece of cardboard to make some sample boards of the material. Then when you do the color tests on your concrete, you can also do color tests on the patching material sample boards. Then you will see how much, if any difference, the patches will be from the floor. It may be that doing a second coat on the patches helps it to blend, or vice versa, or it could be that a different patch material works out better, or you may see that you need to really darken out the border area. Also, you can always use the water color paint trick, mentioned above, on the divots if needed too.

Just a personal opinion, but when using Canyon or Island Sand, the Honey Oak or Leather Brown looks great with it. The Coffee also works well for a much darker color and camouflaging or darkening out.

If you do use tape to make lines for the border, then it's important to try and keep the stain from getting under the edge of the tape, which it will try to do. So, brush on the border color using a brush and bucket. Dip the brush, tap out the excess stain in the bucket, and then place the brush in the center of the border area or near the wall. Brush in a circular motion towards the tape so that once you reach the tape, the stain is out of the brush and you are dragging the stain to the tape. Additionally, if you spray over tape, then be sure to not spray at an angle, but rather spray directly down over the tape. Also, it's better to do a couple light misting coats than one heavy coat. Remember that the stain is liquid like water and will want to get under the tape if possible.

Finally, you can do the border first in a darker or even the same color, and then spray the entire floor, including the border, with the lighter color.

6) If we seal the concrete after the stain, will we need the wax?

A. - You should certainly still wax it. The wax is the best part. It's the sacrificial coat. Top Shield by Concrete Camouflage lasts for quite a long time in high traffic areas and when it does start to scuff or dull you just apply a fresh coat and it's back to new. It makes the cleaning a breeze and maintenance easy and inexpensive, while ensuring that your new stained floor stays looking new, and when maintained properly will ensure that your stained floor lasts indefinitely. Also, the Top Shield floor wax comes in gloss or matte finish.

Also, by sealing and waxing both, you are layering in clear coats that will add to the depth, luster, and appearance of an expensive floor.

Thanks in advance for your help. We are excited to get started but we need to get our questions answered first so we know what to order. Kimberly

I hope this helps,

Earl.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

800 650 1157

Earl Choate, Ph.D.

Will the stain penetrate a thin layer of paint on the floor?

2012-01-30T13:45:00.001-06:00

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Q. - Hello- I am wondering if the stain will penetrate a very thin layer of paint...I have pulled up the carpeting from my lower level and it appears that the developer let some paint hit the floor when he was spaying the walls. It is very random and I don't mind it. I was thinking of just sealing and waxing the floor but I think I want it to be a bit darker. Please let me know when you have a chance. Thank you.

Hello Mark,

A. - The concrete stain will not stain nor penetrate paint. You need to strip and/or lightly sand the paint to remove it first. You can use paint strippers, or citrus strippers, or even heavy duty glue removers which work very well. For sanding you can use a belt sander for small areas, or you can rent a floor sander like they use on wood floors, or you could even use a floor buffing machine with the sanding disks which keeps it inexpensive and easy to do.

My older and painted floor is peeling. What should I do?

2012-01-17T11:19:00.001-06:00

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Q. - It seems that most over your tips are about new concrete. I wanted to know how and what products to paint an older floor that is painted but the paint has pealed.

Hello Harriet,

A. - You should completely remove all the existing paint, and then use the concrete acid stain, sealer, and wax, using Concrete Camouflage products, and the directions and tips online at ConcreteCamouflage.com

The paint can be stripped off using a citrus stripper or a heavy duty glue remover, and then, if there is still any paint left, including in the pores of the concrete, you can sand it with a rented floor sander or a floor buffing machine using the sanding disks. Then you should be ready to go forward with the concrete acid stain, sealer, and wax.

IMPORTANT: You should not use paints or acrylic stains(which are just disguised paints) because it will just peel again. Only concrete acid stain is real concrete stain, like what wood stain is to wood, so don't let anyone fool you.

I hope this helps

Can I use your sealer on a kitchen concrete countertop where I prepare food?

2012-01-17T11:03:00.000-06:00

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Q. - I am looking to use a sealer for concrete counter tops. Is your sealer safe for kitchen counter top use, food handling, etc.?

Hello Kim,

A. - Clear Shield Advanced concrete sealer by Concrete Camouflage is a pure acrylic water based sealer made for all types of concrete. It is approved for use in FDA inspected facilities. Many people have used it on their concrete countertops for years now, and we have had no complaints at all.

However, with that being said, we do not condone or recommend it's use on surfaces where food will be prepared directly on the sealed surface. Therefore, if you choose to use it on your countertop(s), we suggest that you prepare any foods on cutting boards or other such countertop coverings. Both to protect the sealer from any damage when preparing foods and of course to ensure that you do not take any chances when it comes to protecting yourself and your families health.

We make this suggestion not only in regards to our sealer but with any sealer, and with all concrete countertops, regardless of what any particular manufacturer or sales person might say.

I hope this helps

I don't want a glossy finish on my floor. Do I have to seal it and wax it?

2012-01-17T10:49:00.001-06:00

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Q. - My concrete floor has been done really badly.
Now I want to give it a colour to make it more equal,
but I don't want this shining sealer layer on top of it.
Is it necessary to use the sealer or can I can skipp that part.
Best,

Hello Marleen,

A. - While you don't absolutely have to, it's a really good idea to seal it and then wax it. This will protect and thereby greatly extend the life of the floor and make cleaning and maintenance much easier, and less expensive in the long term. Fortunately for you, Concrete Camouflage has a satin finish sealer and also a matte finish mop on style wax available. So you can have the best of both worlds. A protected and easy to clean floor along with not having to have the glossy finish that you want to avoid.

I hope this helps

I have milky white areas after applying the mop on wax. Why and how can I fix it?

2012-01-17T10:38:00.000-06:00

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Q. - I recently purchased some no buff wax (matte) and applied it this past weekend. I applied two coats, with it being over 24 hrs. I know have a milky film on 60% of the floor. The question I have is how can I fix this?
thanks,

Hello Eric,

A. - It's most likely caused by moisture which is either trapped under the wax or trapped in the sealer.

If you applied it to a floor that has been sealed with a solvent base sealer, and the sealer hadn't cured well enough, then the water in the wax can penetrate into the solvent base sealer and cause it to turn milky as the water becomes trapped in the sealer. If this is the case then that would mean having to strip the wax and sealer, and then start over with new sealer and new wax, allowing the solvent base sealer to completely cure before applying the wax. Solvents take several days to cure out, and that is just one of several reasons why solvents are quickly becoming the dinosaurs of decorative concrete.

If you applied it to a cured floor, then the floor must have not been completely dry when you applied the wax, or you didn't allow it to dry completely enough between coats. If this is the case, then you should allow it to sit for a couple more days to see if the moisture will escape and thereby correct itself. If not, then you will have to strip the wax and re-apply it, ensuring that the floor is completely dry before re-applying it and ensuring that wax dries completely between coats. You can easily strip the wax off with Simple Green.

While rare, it could also be that moisture is wicking up through the concrete. This can be the case on certain exterior applications and also on certain basement floors, though it can also happen on house slabs too, if the concrete company didn't use a vapor barrier (plastic on the ground) when pouring the concrete.

Finally, if you stained the floor and did not seal it prior to applying the wax, then that would mean that it is either one of the above situations, or the stain was not properly neutralized and is having a reaction with the wax. Which would mean stripping the wax, further neutralizing the stain, applying sealer, and rewaxing. Of course ensuring that the floor completely dries between each step and coat of product.

I hope this helps

Do you have teaching seminars? How long does your products last? Good for high traffic?

2012-01-10T11:14:00.001-06:00

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Q. - HELLO , I WANT TO KNOW IF THIS PRODUCT IS GOOD FOR HIGH TRAFIC AREA.HOW LONG DOES IT LAST.DO YOU CONDUCT TRAINING.

Hello Jessey,

A. - Concrete Camouflage products are great for high traffic. The stain is permanent, the wax last for months, and if you properly maintain your Concrete Camouflage stained, sealed, and/or waxed surface, then they'll last indefinately.

We don't take advantage of people with expensive training seminars. We simply sell an audio guide cd that has more info than dozens of dvd's and/or several seminars combined. We follow that up with both email and toll free telephone assistance as needed.

I hope this helps.

Can I Wax my Driveway?

2012-01-06T10:35:00.000-06:00

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Q. - I have a driveway that was overlay , acid stained, a two coats of oil base clear. I mop it but still doesnt look like new 3 months ago. Can i wax it to keep it looking like new? or what do I do to make it look great all the time

Hello Vernon,

A. - The wax would help to keep it nice, just as a floor. And when it does start to scuff or dull, you just apply a fresh coat. However, while our wax has been used extensively in garages and on exterior porches and patios, to put it on a driveway would be the first time I've ever heard of it being done, and I'm not sure how it would hold up to the vehicular traffic.

It sounds like the sealer is not holding up well. Perhaps you should consider applying our sealer over your existing sealer first to see if that would do it. Our sealer is quite good and holds up quite well. It's a water base acrylic and should be fine to apply right over your existing sealer.

Regardless of whether you decide to apply our sealer, or go ahead with the wax, I would suggest that you first purchase a small sample size bottle and just do a small test area first to be sure that you'll be happy with the results. Of course the wax can be stripped off easily if doesn't work, but there's no sense in spending that much to do the entire project before you are sure that you'll get the results that you're after.

The only cautions that I can think of in regards to the wax on the driveway are these. The wax will strip off with Simple Green, which means that oil drips, gas drips, harsh chemicals, etc will also strip it. Also, when there is standing water on the wax it will turn a milky white, though once it dries it will dry back to clear as it was before. Finally, I don't know about hot tire pickup. While we haven't seen any in the garages, a driveway is an entirely different thing as it has the direct sun and more traffic. So again, you should do a test area where you'll be driving over it before applying it to the entire area.

I hope this helps.

How many square feet does the project kits cover?

2012-01-01T10:31:00.001-06:00

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Q. - I am interesting in purchasing a concrete stain kit, however, i would like to know the surface coverage to determine how much i would need for my project.

Hello Damion,

A. - The project kits are customizable to fit your square footage needs. When you click on the kit of your choice, then you will select your color, and then you will select how many square feet that you need to cover. Then the amount of products your ordering along with the price will adjust accordingly.

Also, once you click on the project kit of your choice, whether it be interior or exterior, standard grade or artist grade, it will explain how much product you will be receiving, per each square foot increment.

I hope this helps

My wax has milky white areas. How do I correct this?

2011-12-19T12:53:00.001-06:00

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Q. - I just applied your Mop On floor wax and followed the directions precisely--cleaned my newly stained floor which was completed 2 months ago. I applied the wax with the lambs wool applicator and applied very thin coat--sprayed on with a spray applicator and then used the wool to apply evenly. Now I have several locations where it turned really white and milky. Any suggestions as to why or what I can do to correct?

Hello Dawn,

The wax should never be sprayed on. It should only be applied per the application instructions. Anyway, it is most likely that either the floor still had moisture on it when the wax was applied, or it was applied to thick. I would let it sit for a couple days to see if the problem corrects itself. If not, then you'll need to strip those areas, allow to completely dry, and then re-apply. The wax can be stripped with ammonia and water, though Simple Green works much easier and better to strip it.

I hope this helps.

Should I Use Stencil to Create a Pattern on My Floor?

2011-11-01T11:30:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I want to use a old chigcago brick stencil pattern, with a stain, on a interior floor. Is it possible to do that without making a huge mess of the project? Would it ever work without getting all in the mortar joints?

Hello Jeremy,

A. - I think in the end, that you would be disappointed using stencil, as the stain really likes to bleed under. The tape would work much better, though it would still have the flat look.

The technique that would really work the best and look absolutely real, is staining the entire floor, drawing the pattern out with a carpenter pencil and/or chalk line with blue chalk(never use red chalk), and then grinding in the pattern with a 4-1/2" angle grinder and a masonry blade. You can use a picture of the brick pattern as a guide to see how the lines should go. You can use a chalk line or a pencil for the long lines, and the pencil for the short lines. The grinder will quickly score down the mortar joint to natural concrete and because the mortar joint will be lower than the brick/concrete surface, the depth will attain the 3D effect and look real. The mortar joints don't have to be perfect in respect to the depthness, actually a variance looks good and makes for even more realism, and besides, once it's sealed and waxed, you won't really see a variance anyway.

Alternatively, you can grind in the pattern first and then stain the floor. That would allow the stain to collect into the joints and stain them slightly darker than the concrete surface, and therefore appear that you colored the mortar when laying the bricks. The depth and 3D effect along with the slightly darker joint color would cause the pattern to still stand out as effectively as grinding afterwards. But you decide which you think would look the best.

I hope this helps,

Earl

Earl Choate, Ph.D.

Concrete Camouflage

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

Oh No! I got stain on concrete I didn't intend to stain! How do I deal with it?

2011-10-24T17:46:00.000-05:00

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Q. - Thank you so much for re-sending the download! Also, despite our best efforts, some stain leaked on to the concrete under our taped plastic leaving a stain outside the intended area. Any advice on how to lighten it? Thanks again!

Hello AnneMarie,

A. - A muriatic acid wash and a good stiff scrub brush should do it.

Before I tell you how, I must tell you that it is extremely important that you ensure that you have plenty of ventilation and fresh air. Use mechanical means if necessary, such as fans in windows, one blowing in and one blowing out, etc. Ensure that you wear protective clothing. Particularly you should be wearing gloves, such as disposable nitrile gloves or another chemical and water resistant pair of gloves. Along with the other protective clothing such as long sleeved shirts, long pants, fully enclosed shoes or boots, goggles, dust or face masks, and/or respiratory protection as needed. Be sure to read all cautions, warnings, and instructions on the acid bottles label prior to handling, storing, and/or using.

OK, on with the how. Mix the acid - 1 part acid to about 5 parts water. You can strengthen it if you need to, but try the 5:1 first.(5 parts water to 1 part acid)

Here's the deal though, and this is highly important. The acid will yellow the concrete and eat away the surface if allowed to sit there for any amount of time at all. So it is extremely important to have a water hose running and ready, or to have a bucket of clean water with a mop sitting in it, on the ready.

You dip the brush into the bucket of acid and water, then you shake off the excess into the bucket. Then you sit the brush down on the concrete and scrub it well yet quickly, being careful to not splash or splatter any acid/water mix onto yourself or your surroundings. Then you immediately remove the brush and place into the bucket or a predetermined safe place area, and then either quickly start rinsing the acid mix off the concrete with the water hose already running on full, or start mopping it up with the mop and the bucket of fresh water.

It is very important to get all the acid mix rinsed all the way off of the concrete or all the way mopped up.

You can repeat as needed until you get it scrubbed all the way down.

As mentioned before, you can strengthen the mix by adding a higher acid to water mix if needed, but you should always start with the 5:1 or even weaker of a mix first, before going any stronger. Also as mentioned before, do not allow the acid mix to sit on the concrete. And be sure to not splatter or splash it.

It is very important to be quick about it, but nothing is as important as your safety and the safety of others. And you do not want to create any additional problems to deal with either.

I hope this helps.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

Earl Wayne Choate Jr., Ph.D.

Do I need to seal after staining? Is the temperature a factor when concrete staining?

2011-10-16T20:59:00.000-05:00

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Q. - My project is covered porch. Will I need to seal after staining? Is outside temperature a factor in concrete staining?

Hello Evelyn,

A. - You do not need to seal the concrete if using the Artist grade concrete acid stain, though it does add to the look.

The temp needs to be a minimum of 35 degrees F to stain and not going to get below freezing for at least 4 hours, preferably for 12 hours.

To seal, it has to be 45 degrees F and not going to get below freezing for at least 12 hours and preferably 24 hours.

There is no real maximum temp but you should try to not stain and/or seal in extreme heat, such as 95 degrees F and above. Rather, try to do it in the cool part of the day when in summertime or in very hot areas.

I hope this helps.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

What's best to remove paint before staining a floor?

2011-10-14T10:16:00.001-05:00

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Q. - what would be the best thing to use to remove the paint and sealer off the floor a floor grinder or chemical it is approx 4600 sq.ft and a restuarant

Hello Brett,

A. - The best thing is to use paint strippers, glue removers, or Xylene. What helps the most though is a stiff straw scrub brush like sold at www.ConcreteCamouflage.com. It takes about 90% of the work out of stripping. Use painters shields as scrapers because they're about 2' wide or wider which helps. Use square end shovels and buckets to scoop it up and carry it out. You may need to go over it a couple times.

You can use a good degreaser to help lift it out of the pores of the concrete after stripping it if you like.

Once you've stripped all you can with the strippers/removers, use a rented floor sander, like they use on wood floors, or even a rented floor buffing machine with the sanding disks on it to lightly sand it the rest of the way down to a good smooth finish and completely back to concrete.

Be sure and do a test in a closet or out of the way place with the stain before doing the entire project.

I hope this helps.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

Will patches show? How do I camouflage/hide patches?

2011-09-28T17:36:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I have some concerns about the steps I'm taking to fill in holes and cracks before I begin staining.
The concrete filler I'm using is grey in color and stands out compared to the actual concrete. I have to fill so many holes from the nails used to lay the tack strips, that I'm now concerned the stain will not take, or will show major discoloration than the rest of the floor. My room is approx 450 sq.ft and there are holes all around it at least 1/2 inch apart and several long cracks that need filling in the center of the room. It's starting to look worse than before I filled them.
What's the best way to handle this problem?

Hello Terri,

A. - If the cracks are only hairline cracks, meaning you cannot place a coin into them, then I wouldn't try to patch them. Hairline cracks will add character to the concrete and is actually a desirable when acid staining. If you must patch them and as for the holes you're patching, the patching material will likely stain a different color than the rest of the concrete, as you suspected. You should take some of the patching material and put it on a piece of cardboard or the such to make a small test board(s). Then when you do a color test on the concrete, in an out of the place such as a closet, then you can also stain the patching test board and compare the two together. It may be that you can do a second coat on the patching to bring them closer or vice versa. Or it may be that you need to use a darker color altogether to get them to blend, either by doing a darker border or the entire floor darker. Also it may be that you simply need to highlight your floor. You could stain the entire floor a lighter color, and then highlight the floor with a darker color, using the highlighting techniques found in the blog, or in the audio book segment named highlighting found at the www.ConcreteCamouflage.com website, to blend in and camouflage the patches.

You can purchase the highlighting audio segment for .99 cents, and there is also a patching segment for only .59 cents that would have some great tips too, and then there is the using multiple colors segment for borders. However, when you purchase products from Concrete Camouflage, then you will get two free audio book segments in your receipt email. So I recommend that you order yourself some sample bottles of a few different colors that you may like to try. Be sure to get some light and some dark and then take the time to do some testing on the concrete in an out of the way place as mentioned and also on the test board(s). Try the different colors and also try the highlighting as suggested, and you should find that you can camouflage the patches and also create a unique and cool looking effect that you may have not even considered.

Here's the audio book segments link: http://www.concretecamouflage.com/cat-downloadable-concrete-staining-guides.cfm

I hope this helps.

Can I stain coloered cinder blocks?

2011-09-25T09:52:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I have a pink cinder block wall, that's was popular during the mid century. Not painted, actually poured pink cinder block. Will your product work on the colored block, or only grey concrete?

Hello Michael,

A. - It should work just fine, though the color of the blocks will have an effect on the color that you'll get from the stain. A test is a good idea to determine what the final color will be, prior to staining them all, as well as to be certain of compatibility.

Can I seal only inside, and not use the floor wax?

2011-09-07T14:18:00.000-05:00

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Q. - How long will my floor look nice if i acid stain it and put your sealer? I really want a low maintenance floor and don't want to have to keep reapplying wax.

Hello Greg,

A. - The wax is the best part, and the least maintenance overall. It is less slippery and much less expensive to maintain than any sealer is. How long sealer alone will last depends on how much and how rough of traffic it gets, but usually about as long +/- as Top Shield floor wax does. When the sealer does scuff or dull it will have to be stripped and resealed. When Top Shield floor wax by Concrete Camouflage scuffs or dulls, which is typically 6 months or more in a high traffic area, and potentially years in very low traffic areas, you just apply a fresh coat and it's back to brand new. If you have to strip sealer it takes harsh chemicals and allot of elbow grease as to where if you ever do have to strip our wax you just use Simple Green.

The bottom line is that the sealer is designed to protect and enhance the cosmetics of the acid stained floor. The wax is the intended sacrificial coating that protects the sealer and ensures that you never have to strip and/or seal ever again.

I know that pretty much all waxes on the market, especially those found at local big box stores, or either difficult to apply and maintain and/or they have a very short life span and do in fact require massive amounts of maintenance. However, I strongly suggest that you do not overlook or ignore the incredible benefits of Top Shield floor wax by Concrete Camouflage.

I hope this helps.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

800 650 1157

Can I stain 20 year old concrete, or should I use acrylics?

2011-08-29T19:22:00.001-05:00

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Q. - the concrete that i am planning to stain is about 20yrs old. is it too old to be stained or should i use acrylic instead?

Hello Jerry,

A. - Your concrete should be fine to stain, so long as it is not contaminated with glue, oil, grease, sealers, waxes, or anything else that would prevent the stain from soaking into the pores of the concrete. If it is covered or contaminated, then we can instruct you on how to strip and/or sand it as needed, to prepare it for concrete staining.

Older concrete does of course have a harder time accepting and reacting to concrete stains, that are standard grade. Which is what pretty much all acid stains are, especially those found locally, i.e.: home improvement stores. However, Concrete Camouflage is the leader in, and perhaps the only one, to manufacture an Artist grade stain. Artist grade concrete stains will work where standard grade stains will not and cannot. Even on concrete that has been acid etched or acid washed. When all the other manufacturers tell you that concrete acid stain will not work on acid etched concrete, or concrete that is older, that is because they are representing a standard grade, or everyday run of the mill concrete stain. Even Concrete Camouflage carries a standard grade stain called Fiesta-Stain(to compete with the other manufacturers, after all not everyone wants a Mazarati - some people just want a Geo Metro.) Anyway, the Artist grade stain will indeed work where all the others will not, including Fiesta-Stain. I would still do a test area to be sure though, before doing the entire job. You should never take anyone's word for anything these days. A test would ensure not only compatibility with your concrete, but also that you are going to like the color.

In regards to acrylics. Acrylic stains are simply disguised paint. Their only purpose is to separate you from your cash. As with all paints on concrete, they will peel. No matter what anyone says. We have a recipe for what would be the world's best acrylic stain. It's basically a type of concrete sealer(which wears away with time) and you guessed it, paint pigments. It is locked away forever, to protect the public from junk products.(we like to sleep at night). I strongly advise you to stay away from the acrylics. I and all of us around here for that matter, spend much of our time on an ongoing basis, telling people how to remove the acrylic messes that have been tricked into by the big box companies. Only acid stains are true concrete stains, as wood stains are to wood.

I hope this helps.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

800 650 1157

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Can I stain a block wall with concrete acid stain?

2011-08-24T09:42:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I have a small retaining wall (~250sq ft) that I'm looking to stain. Do you know if your product works on block? If so, what do you recommend for the stain / sealer, as approx coverage. Thank You

Hello Wayne,

A. - If it's cinder block then yes it should work quite well. If it's some other kind of brick, then you'll have to do test to know for sure, and should do a test on cinder block as well, to ensure the color along with the compatibility. The coverage for cinder block varies, but basically I would cut the coverage's down to about 70% and possibly even in half, as block is extremely porous and soaks up quite a bit of material. Again, it's just a guess but I would figure the Concrete Camouflage artist grade stain would cover it with about a gallon and half. However, you could try just 1 gallon and see if it can stretch out as it very well could if you apply it correctly. Spray it on and have a brush handy to brush out any runs as you go.

You don't have to seal walls, but if you choose to, then I would figure on about 2 gallons of Concrete Camouflage's Clear Shield Advanced, at the most, maybe even just a gallon and a half. And stretch it out also. You can always order more if needed.

Cinder block usually stains a little bit darker and reacts quite well with acid stains, so again, you may be able to stretch out a gallon of artist grade stain, though if you intend to use the standard grade, or any standard grade stain for that matter, I would plan on getting three gallons.

I hope this helps.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

800 650 1157

Oh No! I got tricked into putting junk stain on my concrete. Help!

2011-08-22T16:23:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I screwed up and put down R><><leum concrete "stain" which I bought from a big box home improvement store, I bet you know who. I wanted a true acid stain. Thanks R><><leum! Thanks Mr. big box store! Needless to say it doesnt look very good. Actually it looks like crap! Can you offer any products to take it off? Or will your product etch through it? Please Help!!!

Hello Kevin,

A. - You will have to completely remove all of the "disguised paint" that you were tricked into putting onto your concrete, before applying any true acid stain. Acid stains have to get into the pores of the concrete to work effectively. Also, now that you have etched your concrete in order for the acrylic stain- semi-transparent stain- or whatever they call it- to work, Only the Artist Grade acid stain from ConcreteCamouflage.com will be effective. All other stains are only standard grade and even our Fiesta Stain is standard grade, and will now be completely and totally ineffective. So be sure to use only the artist grade concrete acid stain from Concrete Camouflage, once you've got the mess cleaned up and off your concrete.

Anyway, if your concrete is outside or in an acceptable area for it, the easiest way is to rent a small sandblaster and sandblast it off.

If you can't use a sandblaster, or if indoors, you can remove it using citrus strippers, heavy duty paint strippers, heavy duty glue removers, a mastic remover, or Xylene(very flammable and aromatic - requiring adequate ventilation and caution - but very effective.) Be sure to visit and read through our blog for some great tips on stripping off concrete sealer, which will also work well for stripping the acrylic stains and paints. The best tip though, is to order a straw scrub brush from Concrete Camouflage to use, as it will definitely help to take out much of the needed elbow grease. Basically, you'll apply your stripping product, let it sit and soak in for a little while to start softening up the paint - err - stain, then apply some more and start scrubbing it until it all becomes soft and finally reliquifies, adding more stripper as needed. Then scrape it into a pile and shovel it up with a square ended shovel and into a bucket for disposal. Repeat as needed.

Ok, once you're through scrubbing and scraping and removing as much as you can, you'll will still most likely need to sand the concrete. You can do this somewhat easily with a rented commercial floor sander, like they use on wood floors. Or you can use a rented floor buffing machine with the sanding disks. After you have it stripped and sanded, or sandblasted, you can start over. Again, use only the artist grade stain from Concrete Camouflage, and you should be ok. However, though you might still be ok with a single coat application as the artist grade stain is intended, you may have to do two coats due to the original etching, in order to achieve the richness and/or darkness desired. So do a test spot first before doing the entire project, so you'll know.

Special Blog Note to anyone about to make the same mistake: Any product that tells you to "acid wash" or "etch" the concrete before applying their product is junk. It is a disguised paint and it is designed for only one purpose - to separate you from your cash. Avoid them at all costs. Only Concrete Acid Stains are true stains for concrete, as wood stains are for wood.

It is unfortunate that the big box home improvement stores see fit to carry only disguised paints labeled as concrete stains, or if they do happen to have an acid stain by chance, it is a diluted homeowner version. When they could consider carrying quality products such as those manufactured by Concrete Camouflage. But that would of course cut into their massive and gluttonous profit margins, wouldn't it.

I hope this helps.

Will the stain rub off?

2011-06-27T09:28:00.001-05:00

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Q. - Most products that I've looked at state that they need a smooth surface. The last "stain" we tried rubbed off and we were told it was because the concrete is rough. Will this product rub off? Will the sealer "smooth" the look of the concrete after the stain? Thanks for your help!

Hello Jill,

A. - When you use concrete acid stain then a powdery residue usually forms on the surface during drying and reaction time, but once neutralized and rinsed down, the concrete is seen to be the new stained color. It stain should not however, rub off and go back down to bare uncolored concrete.

When you neutralize and rinse it, you can scrub it too hard and you can take it down too far. So be careful and easy on it, but be sure to scrub down any dark areas that you want to lighten up then, because after it dries it will lock down. Other than that, the concrete should be a new chemically changed color on the surface.

In all actuality, a rougher concrete surface will take stain better because it soaks into the pores better, though it does require more stain as it drinks it up.

The only way that Concrete Camouflage concrete acid stain would rub off, is if there was a curing agent, sealer, wax, grease, oil, or some other contaminant that would prevent the stain from soaking into the concrete. Or if the concrete is extremely smooth, then the stain has a hard time getting into the pores. But you can go over the concrete with a floor buffing machine, using the aggressive scrubbing pads, to open up the pores so the concrete stain can penetrate the surface and work.

The sealer is made to go on very thin and has a satin finish. That helps to keep the concrete texture coming through for traction, while giving it a natural yet enhanced look for outdoors. Then when you use it indoors, you put our mop on style floor wax over it, which gives it more depth, luster, and a high gloss. The wax has traction additives built in, is easy to maintain, and very long lived. The sealer and/or wax does smooth out the look.

I hope this helps.

How do I open the pores of really smooth interior concrete?

2011-06-20T11:06:00.001-05:00

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Q. - For indoor staining on smooth concrete, does anything besides the cleaning need to be done? some instructions I have read say it is necessary to use an etching agent or floor buffer with sandpaper to roughen the concrete before it will take stain

Hello Rachel,

A. - The concrete needs to be clean, and the pores need to be open, so it can accept the stain. So if it the concrete is slick like a mirror then you need to open the pores. If it is smooth but not super slick and/or has been around for a while, then the pores may be open enough already.

Here's how to tell: Pour some water on it. If the water soaks right in, then the stain will too. If the water just kinda sits there and has a hard time penetrating the concrete's surface, then the stain will too.

If you see that you do need to open the pores, then you should not use, never ever use or do, any acid washing or acid etching if you can anyway keep from it, prior to staining. When you acid wash/etch concrete then it burns up the lime and other minerals that are present in the concrete, and needed by the concrete acid stain in order to react and work properly. Most acid stains are rendered useless once concrete has been acid washed/etched. In fact, the Artist Grade line of Concrete Acid Stain by Concrete Camouflage is the only acid stain proven to still be effective on an acid washed/etched concrete slab. But even then, it can be not quite as rich as it would have otherwise been.

Anyway, to open the pores: Yes, you can use a rented floor buffing machine as you had read elsewhere. However, do not use the sanding disks unless you're trying to get up glues, paints, etc. Only then would you need to use them. Of course the sanding disks will certainly open up the pores, but they will also take out some of the marbleization found in the final effect of stained - smooth concrete.

Therefore, if you're concrete just needs cleaned well and the pores opened up, you're better off to use the good scrubby pads instead. They will still clean the concrete well and open the pores up adequately, without over opening them, and thereby causing the loss of marbleization.

I hope this helps.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

800 650 1157

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I acid washed my concrete. Can I still stain it?

2011-06-12T08:44:00.000-05:00

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We recently had a colored driveway poured. The contractor water cured it causing it to turn pinkish. The Color's Manufacturer told us to wash the concrete with diluted acid to get rid of the pink and it helped but the color is still quite light. Can Concrete Camouflage acid stain be applied over concrete treated with muriatic acid?

Hello Candace,

While it is true that standard grade acid stains are rendered useless on concrete that has been acid washed or acid etched, the Artist Grade Concrete Acid Stain by Concrete Camouflage can indeed be successfully used on concrete that has been acid washed and/or etched. Customers all over are using the artist grade stain on concrete that was otherwise deemed unstainable, with great results, and have been for years.

The only potential drawback is that it may not be quite as rich of a color as it would have been. That could cause you to need to do a second coat, if the first coat doesn't darken as much as you would like. To help maximize the reaction time and possibly prevent a second coat, allow the stain to sit on the concrete for a full 24 hours after it has dried, before neutralizing and rinsing.

I hope this helps.

Staining a basement with moisture issues, (cont.)

2011-03-25T10:33:00.001-05:00

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Hello Tom,

thank you for the reply, I am about to place my order and give this a try but had a couple more questions. I am planning on using the bronze green artist grade stain on a gray concrete basement floor. from my previous inquiry mentioning my mild to moderate moisture wicking, it was determined that a water soluble sealer would be used and wax was out of the question. my first question is on how many coats of stain. i know 1 coat was suggested on the site and 2 could be used if a darker color is desired. is one coat the norm or do most people apply 2 coats of the stain?

   The norm is 1 coat for a more pastel version and 2 coats for more of a darker and bronzier with less green effect.

is there greater protection against fading if you use 2 coats ?

   No. It's purely a cosmetic decision. Acid stain does not fade. It will wear away or erode away if the surface of the concrete is worn down or eroded, but it will not fade or peel.

i won't be able to use the sacrificial layer of wax with my situation, so i want to put myself in the best situation from the beginning. if 2 coats is suggested, what is the typical drying time between coats and i'm assuming i do not neutralize and clean the residue between coats right?

   You do not need to neutralize between coats, just be sure that the stain is completely dry before walking on it. Typical drying time is a few hours between coats and 24 hours drying time after the second coat has been applied.

   By the way, the wax is to protect the sealer, so that you never have to seal it again. This means that by not having the wax, you will have to reseal it when needed, which depending on the amount and type of traffic it gets, could be yearly or every 5 years or more, if ever for relatively little used floors. It will however, not effect the stain, unless of course you allow the sealer to completely wear away, which would then allow for eventual surface traffic wear.

my next question is just for informative purposes. i have read that your product does not require sealing. it appeared that this applies mostly to exterior projects. what would happen if you did not seal the basement floor?

   The Artist Grade stain can be left unsealed. The consequences are as follows. You will have to get all the residue up or it will track into other rooms. You will not have the cosmetic benefits of sealing. As the surface of the concrete wears down through the years, you may get wear patterns which would eventually require restaining.

also related to that question i read that some people with other products have tinted their sealer to fix traffic areas when they have to reseal down the road. knowing tha ti will be re-sealing every couple of years because i can not use wax, what are your thoughts on tinting the sealer ?

   If you reseal it when it is needed then you will never have wear patterns and will never have cause for a tinted sealer. Tinted sealers are great for camouflaging messes and blemishes, but if used when not needed can become the mess itself.

Can I stain and seal a basement floor with moisture problems?

2011-03-15T11:28:00.001-05:00

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Q. - hello, i have an interest in acid staining my basement floor but have some questions and concerns. i assumed i had a relatively dry basement. i moisture tested by taping plastic and saw no evidence of moisture. i installed a laminate floor and about 2 months later i had buckling. i assumed it was due to the water table with this harsh winter and then someone told me that i was probably getting moisture from the slab. i never saw any slick spots or water in the past because it was probably evaporating and drying as soon as it reached the surface. when i placed the laminate and moisture underlayment i created a greenhouse affect and trapped the moisture and that caused the buckling. i'm not sure if that sounds like what happened, but it does seem logical. here in lies my question. i'm led to believe that if i seal the floor or paint it, i will bubble since i'm not allowing the moisture to evaporate like it needs to. any other flooring surface will be subject to moisture collection i assume....carpet, tile, laminate so those don't appear to be viable options. my question is, if i acid stain and use a water soluble sealer, will that allow a small amount of moisture to evaporate and not cause future problems? what would you suggest in my case? i never had any visible moisture issues until i covered my basement floor. i appreciate your opinions and thank you. tom patavino

Hello Tom,

A. - The acid stain will be fine as it works by creating a permanent change in the concrete's surface color, therefore stain does not sit on the surface like paints.

The sealer however, does sit on the surface. Pretty much most all sealers will close off the surface and then any moisture wicking up through the concrete will be stopped by the sealer which will cause the sealer to eventually lose its bond and start to flake off. The exception is the Concrete Camouflage brand: Clear Shield Advanced formula water base sealer. Because of it being a pure acrylic and not an acrylic mix as most sealers are, Clear Shield Advanced will allow a certain amount of moisture to wick through the sealer and evaporate. A major amount of moisture may not be passable but a minor to moderate amount of moisture wicking is part of the intended design. As you have described your slab it sound to me like your floor is a perfect candidate for staining and sealing with Concrete Camouflage products. At least it's worth the try.

You will want to be sure that you do not wax it. The wax would seal off the floor and prevent the moisture wicking and escaping that you seek. Unfortunately that means that rather than using the wax as the intended sacrificial coat, and only having to maintain the wax, you will have to re-seal the floor every few years +/-.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

Cracks in floor... patch?

2011-03-07T08:57:00.001-06:00

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Q. - Hi. A few years ago, a company came to our house and installed a concrete floor in our kitchen. The floor now has a few cracks in it and the company that installed it is out of business and we cannot get in touch with them to honor the warranty. So my question is: is there a product we can use to patch the cracks? Or would a sealer prevent them from cracking more? They're just very thin hairline cracks and not too noticeable right now, but I'm afraid they'll get worse. Any suggestions you can provide would be fantastic. Thanks!

Hello Laura,

A. - If they're just hairline cracks then I would not patch as of yet, and would try to never have to. If you seal the floor then that will fill in the cracks and keep any moisture or dirt from getting in and causing more trouble. However, you'll also need to wax it. The wax is the sacrificial coat. It ensures that you never have to re-seal it. If the sealer wears down then it's no longer stabilizing the floor.

Therefore, I would suggest sealing it with the Concrete Camouflage brand of sealer and wax. 2 coats of Clear Shield Advanced sealer and then 2 coats of Top Shield floor wax.

The wax will last for months in a high traffic area before scuffing or dulling and when it does, you just apply a fresh coat and it's back to new.

Note: Hopefully the hairline cracks are caused by normal conditions and sealing/waxing is a final fix which would keep your floor in good shape for a long while and could keep it good forever. However, if the flooring overlayment starts to lose its bond to the floor underneath, or if there is an uncorrected condition causing the cracking to occur then this will be only a temporary fix.

I hope this helps.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

Can I stain my concrete pavers?

2011-02-23T09:06:00.000-06:00

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Q. - Can I stain my exterior Techo-Bloc concrete paver sidewalk and patio? Thank you! looks like you have a wonderful product.

Hello Michele,

A. - When it comes to pavers, you just never know without first doing a test. While the stain does work with cementious products, each manufacturer has their own unique mixes, and then there's the question of baking, sealing, etc. Also, it's not only a question of will the stain work, but what the final color will be with your set of pavers.

Although you'll need to do a test to know if and/or how the stain will work with your particular pavers, I can tell you that we have had many successful and happy paver staining customers through the years. Just remember that acid stain does not cover like a paint. Acid stain colors through a chemical reaction with what is already present in the piece that you are staining. Therefore, as the pavers are a slightly different color from each other now, they will still reflect those shades of difference once stained.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

Do I have to remove all the residue?

2011-02-17T09:29:00.001-06:00

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Q. - Does all the dusty residue have to be off before you seal it. I've mopped a bunch but to run your finger across it, there is still some residue.

Hello Diane,

A. - You do not have to remove 100% of all the residue. Though you will likely want to get the majority of the residue off, you by no means have to remove it all, and that's actually not even why we have you neutralizing and mopping it. You must thoroughly neutralize the stain so the sealer can hold it's bond. That's why we have you neutralize it once and then rinse it at least twice, to be sure. And if we say to remove the residue you're more likely to mop it enough times and change out your water as it gets dirty.

So, if you've thoroughly neutralized and rinsed it, then you may proceed.

Please help me fix scratches in an acrylic stain I bought locally.

2011-02-11T13:15:00.001-06:00

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Q. - I applied BEHR semi-transparent concrete stain (I already had done it before I found your company - its to bad because your products are better!) then sealed it with their sealer and applied 3 coats of your Top Shield floor wax. I let it sit for several days. I went to set up the bed in the room and now have 2 large gouges completely down to the concrete. I am so upset and wanted to see if you knew of anyway to repeair them so the rest of the floor does not chip away. I thought about taking a small brush and applying sealer again and then reapplying the top shield. I am not as concernd about the look as I can cover it with a rug, but dont want the rest of the floor to come up, as I have now learned that these types of stains don't last like your acid stains and can start to peel easily. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello Nicole,

A. - We're happy to help.

Strip back the Top Shield floor wax using Simple Green. Strip it about a foot or so back and away from the area to be worked on.
Allow to dry.
You can then use a small paint brush to carefully paint in the color, using the same as you used on the floor initially, or you can even use water colors from a children's water color paint book that you pick up at the Dollar Store and mix the colors together to match the floor.
Allow to dry.
Re-apply your sealer with a brush and be sure to apply the same number of coats of sealer as you put on the floor initially and feather out the last coat to blend it in with the area.
Allow to completely dry and cure as directed.
Re-apply the Top Shield floor wax to the area that is stripped. Feather out the last coat as well to blend it in. If you need to, then you can apply a fresh coat to the entire floor to totally smooth it out and blend it in.
Have a great weekend and next time order your concrete stain and supplies from Concrete Camouflage.

And while your waiting on dry times, if you get a few extra minutes, like music, and could use a laugh or two, then check out www.EarlWayne.com.

Is moisture problems an issue?

2011-02-01T13:07:00.001-06:00

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Q. - Is moisture a factor in whether I can stain concrete or not? I'm fairly sure that there isn't a moisture problem in my basement slab, but I want to know if I should test for this or factor it into what type of stain I might buy.

Hello Christin,

A. - While moisture problems would be detrimental to acrylic or water base stains, moisture is not an issue for most our higher quality concrete acid stains, such as Concrete Camouflage artist grade acid stains. Moisture problems can also be a major issue for most sealers and waxes.

Clear Shield Advanced by Concrete Camouflage is one of a few sealers that allow the concrete to breath and also will allow a certain amount of moisture to wick through and still be fine, however, a major water problem would be still be an issue.

Concrete Camouflage's wax, Top Shield, is a great floor wax, but not if there's any moisture issues at all.

If you have a moisture problem then you'll likely be able to see it, especially after a heavy rain.

Can I stain my Stamped Concrete Patio that has most of the sealer off?

2011-01-05T11:30:00.001-06:00

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Q. - I have a stamped concrete patio that is 1 & 1/2 years old. the sealer (xylene base) has been 95% taken up. Can I use your artist grade concrete acid stain and then reapply the same xylene sealer over top?

Hello Madeleine,

A. - You can certainly use the Artist grade stain and yes, you can apply a Xylene based sealer over it. However, the stain will not be able to penetrate and work where there is still sealer, so you need to strip the rest of the sealer off that is still on there. You can do so by using Xylene, a stiff straw scrub brush on a broom handle, and a powerwasher. It is vital that you use a stiff straw scrub brush, they're hard to find but an absolute. You can order them from Concrete Camouflage when ordering the stain if you like.

Remember that Xylene is flammable and aromatic. Be sure to read all instructions, warnings, cautions, and labels of all products before storing, opening, and/or using. Work in sections of course and try to not walk where you have worked until it has dried.

Pour the Xylene on and allow it to sit for about 30 seconds or so, which will start to soften the sealer.
Then pour on some more Xylene and scrub it with the straw scrub brush, which will re-liquify the sealer.
Then you can use a painters shield to scrape it into a pile or over the edge. You can also use a square ended shovel to pick it up. If there's not enough sealer left to scrape up or pick up then you can use rags to wipe it up, or if there is not enough sealer left on the concrete for even wiping up, then skip this step and go to the next step.
On this step you may need to walk in it. Pour a little more Xylene on and scrub it all around quickly, then use the powerwasher to wash it off and over the edge. The Xylene re-liquifies the sealer, and if you hit it with the powerwasher before it starts to dry back down, then the powerwasher will take the sealer completely off and should even remove it from the pours.

As you said that you already have 95% of the sealer removed, you will likely skip step 3. Once you give it the final strip down and powerwash, allow the concrete to dry completely. Then you can proceed with acid staining and re-sealing.

I hope this helps.

Can I acid stain my stamped concrete patio?

2010-12-27T19:04:00.000-06:00

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Q. - This is a colored and stamped concrete patio that is a really ugly bright red, I would like to tone down the color to something with a more brown/black look. Can I restain this, I have found that when I have used bleach on the patio the color would run, will this be a problem in restaining?

Hello Margaret,

A. - So long as the concrete is not sealed, and when you pour water on it - the water soaks into the concrete rather than just sitting there or beading up, then it should work out fine for you. The color bleeding is likely because the residual release agent that was used when it was stamped (which keeps the stamps from sticking to the concrete) is being washed off.

Though you may want to do a test in an out of the way place first to be sure and to also ensure that you like the new color, before doing the entire project. I would suggest using the Concrete Stain Prep and then a good powerwashing for prep. Also, for a brown/black color I would suggest the Coffee artist grade acid stain by Concrete Camouflage.

I hope this helps.

What's the difference between Artist grade, Standard grade, and acrylics?

2010-12-10T15:35:00.001-06:00

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Q. - can u please tell me the difference between your artist and standard grades of acid stains? also what is the difference between your concrete stains and the acrylic / semi transparent / water base concrete stains that i have seen locally?

A. - The difference in our standard and artist grade concrete acid stains is that the Artist grade is a 1 coat acid stain as where the standard grade is a 2 coat acid stain. Therefore you will get double the coverage out of the artist grade. The standard grade is just that, the standard grade of acid stain that you'll find on the market today. The artist grade is pretty much the best that money can buy and actually ends up being a better value per square foot when all is said and done.

Acrylic stains, semi transparent stains, water base stains, etc. or actually only disguised concrete paints that are using the name "concrete stain" to try and trick you into buying them. Make no mistake, acid stains are the only true concrete stains and are to concrete as wood stain is to wood.

How well and how long does the acid stain hold up?

2010-11-10T11:07:00.001-06:00

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Q. - hello, I love this alot. i have 400 square foot interior new added room, and 200 sft in garage, and i am going to have 500 sf for flat roof deck concrete soon.
before order i want to know = how long this product last for both interior and exterior? do I have to buff or smooth the concrete before apply stain? how good it can handle the heavy traffic or footing over the product? if there are scratches after all applied then how to fix this?

thanks,
please reply, because we never done this before? alot of my friend want to do it but have the same question like me.

Hello Luong tran,

A. - The artist grade stain by Concrete Camouflage is permanent and will last for the life of the concrete's surface, as it is a chemical reaction that actually changes the color of the surface of the concrete.

You do not have to buff the concrete. However, extremely smooth finished concrete will take the stain better if you do use a floor buffing machine on it with the scrubby pads, when you clean it, to help open up the pores of the concrete.

It handles heavy traffic just fine. When indoors you will Seal it with our Clear Shield Advanced concrete sealer and use our Top Shield floor wax which will last for several months before it starts to scuff or dull and when it does, you just apply a fresh coat and it's back to brand new. When outdoors you can seal it or not and it will be fine.

If the scratches are in the sealer or wax then a fresh coat of sealer or wax will fix it. If the scratches go down into the concrete then you can apply more stain to the scratches.

I hope this helps.

Help! I'm not happy with the stain color and I sealed it! What should I do?

2010-11-09T12:04:00.001-06:00

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Q. - Please help if you can. I stained my floor and I'm not happy with the color. The thing is though, I went ahead and sealed it. What can I do to correct it?

Hello Joe,

A. - You'll have to strip the sealer completely off, then re-stain it, re-seal it, and then wax it. Here's how:

Important: Be sure to read all labels on all products, including all warnings, instructions, and cautions before opening and/or using.

Ensure you have plenty of ventilation and turn off all heat sources and or pilot lights as well as any gas of course.

Use a stiff straw scrub brush on a broom handle (you can purchase one at Concrete Camouflage if you can't find one local, as most places don't carry them) it is very important that you use a stiff straw scrub brush, they are hard to find, but an absolute necessity. I can't stress the importance of the brush enough. Stiff and Straw. Not a straw push broom, a brush. If you don't use a stiff straw brush it means much more work for you with not near as good of results.

To strip the sealer you will use Xylene also known as Xylol or Toulene (this is very flammable and aromatic) or you can use a Good Citrus Type Stripper that would be less flammable and aromatic.

Anyway, pour some Xylene or Stripper onto the concrete, whichever you prefer, and let it sit until the sealer is softened, keeping it wet and moving it around and redistributing the Xylene or Stripper as needed. Then pour some more Xylene or Stripper on and begin to scrub the sealer until it reliquifies completely, adding more if needed (don't walk in it). Then use a painters shield or wide scraper ( a painters shield works best) to scrape the sealer into a pile and use a square shovel to scoop it up and place it into a bucket to be carried out. Work in sections and work your way out. Allow to dry and repeat if needed. It's important to not only get all the sealer off the concrete, but also out of the concrete's pores. So you'll likely have to do it a couple times.

You can lightly sand it if you don't get all the sealer up or if you would like to sand down the existing stain. Sanding the existing stain is not really needed because you want the stain to have variation in the colors, with darks and lights and highs and lows, that's the beauty of acid stain. So if you choose to sand it, it would be mainly to ensure you have all the sealer out of the pores of the concrete, or just that you want to sand down the color for your particular desired color effect and darkness. If you do sand it, you can use a rented floor sander or floor buffing machine with the fine grit sanding disks.

Once you have completely stripped the sealer and sanded if needed, you can then re-apply a fresh coat of stain and allow it to completely dry and sit for 24 hours. Neutralize it using 8 oz ammonia to each mop bucket of water and then rinse it a couple more times with clean water only. Allow it to dry. If you want it darker than what one coat gives you then you can do a second coat.

After you are happy with the color, then you can re-apply the sealer. As before, apply one very thin and even coat of sealer and allow to completely dry. Then apply the second very thin and even coat of sealer and allow to completely dry and cure. Try to apply each coat of sealer in opposite directions if possible. For instance, go east/west on one coat and north/south on the other.

Finally, apply a thin coat of our Top Shield floor wax with a Lamb's wool applicator and a paint pan. Allow to completely dry, about an hour or so. Apply a second thin coat of Top Shield floor wax. Allow to dry overnight.

The floor will now be more beautiful, more scuff resistant, and less slippery than before. When the floor does start to scuff or dull, simply clean, allow to dry, and apply a fresh coat of wax.

I hope this helps.

I ran short of stain. What should I do?

2010-09-13T11:01:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I ran short of stain on my patio project. I have ordered another gallon of stain, but what do I do in the mean time. Should I leave the concrete as it is, or should I neutralize the stain that has already been applied? How should I care for the concrete while waiting for the additional stain to arrive? I need some quick answers.

A. - Go ahead and neutralize the stain and rinse off the concrete.

When you apply the rest of the stain, if you overlap the stain that is already applied, then it would be a second coat which would create a darker area or a line. So unless you stopped at a place where you can start again without overlapping, you'll need to feather it in and possibly lightly overspray a second highlight coat over the whole thing to ensure it's blended well.

If you need to feather it, it's done by raising the sprayer wand from the foot or so above the concrete when applying it to the unstained concrete, to waist or shoulder height as you feather into the already stained area. Try to not go any farther past the edge of already stained concrete than you have to, and raise the wand quickly when feathering.

To highlight a second coat, after you finish applying the remaining areas of the first coat, you will simply take what stain is left over and add water to it until you have enough to lightly mist a coat over the entire area. Then hold the wand at either waist level for a darker coat, or at shoulder height for a lighter coat. You can also raise and lower your arm from waist to shoulder height as you spray on the second coat to achieve a more mottled look with deeper highs and lows.

What if I get acid stain on my vegetation?

2010-09-07T08:33:00.001-05:00

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Q. - want to use a acid stain, but am concerned for the surrounding vegetation. I have some mature trees close to the patio/ sidewalk that we are staining.

Hello Keith,

A. - Just be sure to not directly spray the vegetation when applying the stain. And to use plenty of water when rinsing the residue off later, and it should be fine.

Vegetation does brown and die back when the stain gets on it, even the residue wash off can brown it out a little - which is why you flood rinse it when washing the residue, so as to dilute it with allot of water.

NOTE: Of course, you could always mop the residue up, just as you would if you were doing an interior project.

I remember several years back when my wife decided to acid stain some of our concrete statuary yard art. She got set up on the side of the yard and just as she began spraying the acid stain onto the statuary pieces, the wind started blowing. The wind blew stain all over this large shrub that was nearby. Though she wasn't amused by my laughing, in just seconds that bush went from a beautiful green to a dripping, dripping, dripping... dark brown. Anyway, the shrub did die back and being busy(lazy) I decided to leave it until next spring and then replace it. Next spring that bush began to come back and this day is one of the larger and more healthy bushes in our yard.

So while you never want to directly spray vegetation with acid stain, life is resilient, and the acid in the stain is the same as used in swimming pools.

IN CONCLUSION: Just be careful to keep the stain off the vegetation as much as you can, including the residue wash off. Use plenty of water when rinsing and do the project on a non windy day.

How do I get Rubber tire marks off of plain concrete?

2010-08-30T10:04:00.001-05:00

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Q. - Please help in getting rubber tire marks off plain concrete.

Hello Susan,

A. - That's easy to do when you use the Concrete Camouflage C.S.P./ Degreaser - Cleaner. Just pour it on the tire marks and let it sit for a few minutes or so, while ensuring that you don't let it dry. Use a stiff straw scrub brush(also from Concrete Camouflage) to move the CSP around as it soaks in, so as to keep it from drying on you. Add a little more after a few minutes and give it a little scrub with the straw brush. It shouldn't take much scrubbing at all, so let it sit a little longer if need be. Then wash it down with a sprayer nozzle or preferably a power washer if outside, or mop it up if inside.

Note: While some people say that they only need to pour on the CSP and allow it to sit a few minutes and then it will power wash right off, we still find that scrubbing it with a straw brush usually gets it up better.

The CSP degreaser / cleaner is great for normal tire marks. Especially in garages, homeowner driveways, and the such. For really intense and massive tire marks such as on a commercial driveway or parking lot, while it usually works fine, if the CSP degreaser isn't strong enough, then you can use the CSP Stripper which is so strong that it can melt rubber tires.

A final Important Note: The CSP stripper will strip concrete sealers. So while it's great for clean and prep, you shouldn't use the stripper on sealed concrete unless you intend to strip the sealer, and you should only use the CSP degreaser sparingly on sealed concrete and understand that you are still slowly stripping the sealer.

I used another companies products and now have a mess. Please Help!

2010-08-23T10:53:00.000-05:00

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Q. - Ok, using another companies products, we acid stained our floor to the color we wanted. (neutralized, too.) First coat of water based sealer went on OK except for a few white bubbles which rollered out. Next coat of sealer had larger white areas. Told to use xylene, it worked. Disti said to apply a two part water based sealer now. First coat OK, final coat BAD!!! Huge areas of blisters. They supplied a steel wool pad for a rented machine and basically kissed off.
The pad has removed stain color as well as sealers (expected). What are our options? SHould we restain the places, and then try to seal the entire area? (Not all is blistered) We've read on your "ask" site that spraying is good, and we would like to avoid the sealer roller marks we had before.
SHould we just take it all down and start over? Are polyurethanes easier to deal with? This is an unairconditioned area, which I read makes for warmer concrete and issues. Any help you can give would be appreciated. THanks!

Hello Jacque,

A. - It has been a hot summer and too much heat can effect these types of products adversely. Anyway, on to the fix.

You should finish removing all the sealer and as much of the stain as you can first (if there is any left), which means getting the sealer out of the pores of the concrete as well as the surface. You can use a rented floor buffing machine with scrub pads, and even a fine grit sanding pad if needed. You will need to clean it with Concrete Camouflage C.S.P. - Degreaser, once. Then a final clean with T.S.P(tri-sodium-phosphate), and two clean water rinsings. Then let it dry.(Not bone dry - just dry.)

Once the floor is dry, you can apply the stain. Use the Concrete Camouflage Artist Grade concrete acid stain. We suggest that you spray it on rather than brushing it, especially since you're in a warm area, and it is important to work from wet edge to wet edge. Allow the stain to dry for several hours and even up to 24 hours.

Then neutralize the stain with ammonia and water, and do two clean water rinsings. Remember to change your water often.

Once the floor is dry, then you can apply two coats of Concrete Camouflage Clear Shield Advanced formula water base decorative concrete sealer. Roll on one coat as thin and as even as you can. It goes on white and dries clear. When it has dried completely, roll on the second coat as thin and as even as you can, and try to go in a different direction if possible, with the second coat.

After the sealer has cured out dry and clear, which we suggest you give it a couple of days at least, then apply two coats of Concrete Camouflage Top Shield mop on style floor wax. Apply it in as thin and as even of coats as possible also, though you will use a lamb's wool applicator and a paint pan to apply the wax. The wax usually takes about an hour to dry between coats and needs to cure for at least two hours, though overnight is best.

Important Note: The heat will cause these types of products to be less user friendly than in a cooler environment. Therefore, you should schedule to do each phase of the project in the coolest part of the day, which is usually early morning as the air and the concrete both have had all night to cool down.

To answer your last question, as polyurethanes are a two part/two phase product they would be even more difficult to work with in a warmer environment.

How do I prep the floor, after pulling up glue down carpet?

2010-08-11T12:55:00.001-05:00

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Q. - Hello, I have glue down carpet on my concrete floors. What is the best way to clean and smooth the concrete surface before applying the products.

Hello Aphra,

A. - After you remove all the carpet, you can use a citrus stripper, a mastic remover, or a heavy duty glue remover to remove the most of the glue, using scrapers and stiff straw scrub brushes. Then you can rent a floor sander or a floor buffing machine with the fine grit sanding disks, and lightly sand the floor. Then you can mop it well with T.S.P. and water and then a couple clean water rinsings and you should be good to go. Watch to see if the water soaks readily into the concrete, or if it beads up or just kinda sits there. If it soaks readily in then the stain should be able to as well.

In the event you are still left with any residual glue marks or stains in the concrete, they can be camouflaged by using a secondary highlight coat, or perhaps using a scored pattern and/or multiple color schemes.

Questions before doing a vertical wall.

2010-07-28T16:23:00.001-05:00

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I have some questions prior to beginning my wall. Thanks, Ed

Hello Edward,

Questions:

We have some samples from Concrete Camouflage in transit. Are there any differences in application between a vertical wall (our situation) and a floor?

Acid Stain is liquid like water, so it will run easy, which means you'll spray it on lighter than you would a horizontal surface. You will spray on the stain and then use an applicator brush, following behind and brushing in a circular motion, to take out any runs as you go. Otherwise you can mist on very light coats, one at a time.

Can a vertical wall be neutralized with just water?

Yes. Just be sure to flood rinse it well. Don't use allot of high pressure, just lots of water.

Is it necessary to seal a vertical wall? How many square feet on a vertical wall will a gallon of concrete stain cover?

You do not have to seal a vertical wall when using the Artist Grade acid stain by Concrete Camouflage. How much it will cover is determined by how porous the concrete is. Smoother concrete will reap at least 400 sq.ft per gallon and maybe up to 500+. However, rough or porous concrete may only see 250 to 300 sq.ft. per gallon. And cinder block would only see about 150 - 200 sq.ft. per gallon.

Why do I have blisters in my sealer?

2010-07-19T09:58:00.001-05:00

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Q. - We've used a solvent base sealer product two seasons now and both times were done in proper weather conditions and both times bubbled (blistered). Could this be because surface of patio is hotter then outside temp (although we applied it one year at 6am and the other time at 8pm) or is it because we're putting it on too thick? This condition is after first or second coat, didn't make a difference.

Hello Bill

A. - When solvent base sealers blister during application, it's because the temperature of the surface it is being applied to and/or the air temperature is too hot. Strong hot direct sunlight will also cause it. What happens is the Xylene or whatever solvent the sealer has as a base, tries to flash off too fast and it blows bubbles in the sealer as it exits.

A couple points: Rolling a fresh coat of sealer on should re-liquefy the existing sealer, allowing both coats to settle back out, and effectively remove the bubbles completely. That is if it's done when it's not too hot, otherwise they would just come back. You are correct that the concrete temp was likely hotter than the air temp, especially if it had direct sunlight. Perhaps you should try to seal early in the day, after it has had the night to cool, and preferably in the shade, and in a temperature range of the 70's F, and no higher than the low 80's F if possible. If you are continuing to get bubbles and blisters then you may need to seal during a cooler time of year, or switch over to a water base sealer.

Finally, if you do start getting blisters during sealing, then you can use leaf blowers to blow across the surface of the sealer after you seal it - yet before it dries, which will pop the blisters and allow the sealer to settle back out, and dry down without them.

What is best to stain vertical walls and cinder blocks?

2010-07-18T08:41:00.001-05:00

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Q. - Shotcrete vertical exterior retaining wall being installed and want to stain it. What product do you recommend? Also plan to stain a concrete cinder block wall and what works best with that?
Sincerely, Ed

Hello Ed,

A. - The artist grade concrete acid stain by Concrete Camouflage is best for both applications. Here's a couple points to remember. Stain is liquid like water and will tend to run easily, so you will spray it on lightly and follow behind with an applicator brush in a circular motion to ensure complete coverage and to remove any runs as you go. You can do additional coats to darken it up if you choose.

Also, have your shotcrete guy to shoot you a couple sample board pieces to test the stain colors on later to ensure you like the color before doing the entire project, and keep a couple extra cinder blocks for that same purpose.

The shotcrete and the cinder blocks will stain a different version of the color you are using. So it's important to do plenty of testing before hand. Then you can be sure that you are using the correct color or colors to compliment each other as well as their surroundings.

A final thought is that while most standard grade concrete stains require you to seal them, the artist grade concrete stain by Concrete Camouflage does not require being sealed. Therefore, if you prefer the natural unsealed look with the vertical surfaces you can leave them unsealed.

Which tape is best for creating a pattern or border?

2010-07-12T08:17:00.001-05:00

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Q. - When doing a complicated pattern, what type of masking tape do you use?

Hello Chris,

A. - The best tape you can use to create a pattern and/or a border on concrete when concrete staining, is actually a packaging tape. The kind that is a clearish looking, with the strings that run through it. You can find the packaging tape that has the strings running through it (clearish - like a plastic type of tape or a heavy duty scotch tape sort of tape - just be sure that it is not a paper tape, and that it does have the strings running through it) at about any packaging store, ups, fedex, etc.

Why do I see more red in some areas than others?

2010-07-07T09:35:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I stained with island sand applied using a garden sprayer in a circular motion. Surface was scrubbed with TSP and rinsed thoroughly before applying. There are noticeable redder marks in some areas. I think the overall look is good still, but is there a reason for this?

Hello Sean,

A. - The stain works by chemically reacting with the lime, cement, and minerals in the concrete, to change the pores and surface of the concrete to the new and permanent color. When your concrete was originally poured into place, that lime and cement and all the other components were randomly dispersed throughout.

The stain is simply reacting with what is there and where it is. Of course you can highlight with other colors if you like, but if you're happy with it you may want to just leave it alone.

Another consideration is that if you seal it, then that will change the color's appearance as well. The solvent base sealer will make it look as it does when saturated wet with water, and the water base sealer will make it look as it does when it is damp with water.

Do I wash the neutralized residue into my pool or on my plants?

2010-06-28T11:15:00.000-05:00

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Q. - I'm an amateur who is doing concrete staining on a very old concrete deck around my pool.

I will be finishing with your new water-based sealer. Am ready to neutralize the acid stain, but am worried about using ammonia near my reed grasses. They grow nearby, separated from the concrete by a row of railroad ties that are sunk into the ground, so the neutralizing product will wash over the ties when I am rinsing. If I rinse toward the pool what effect will that have on the chlorinated water in the pool? Will I end up staining the poll lining with the rinsewater run-off? What do you suggest?

Hello Karen,

A. - It may be best if you just mop it, as you would an interior floor. That will keep any run off from causing a problem. Once you've neutralized it and mopped it with clean water only, then you could use the hose to flush rinse it once more and get any mop fuzzies off. Rinse towards the grass not the pool.

Will the sealer and wax smooth out a rough floor?

2010-06-16T15:41:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I have a fairly rough surface after using a diamond headed grinder to get surface ready. The floor is kind of rough. Will the sealer and wax make the floor seem to feel smooth?

Hello Trent,

A. - If you use enough sealer then it can fill in and smooth over the porosity. A solvent base sealer which is applied generously will fill in a
rough area quicker than a water base sealer as it is applied thinly. However, even though you are using allot of sealer in several coats, while
allowing it to dry between coats, and even though the most of the sealer is being soaked up into the pores of the concrete, you must still bare in mind that many sealers will turn yellow or cloudy when you use too much and it begins to get too thick. Concrete Camouflage brand of sealers are capable of being applied in very thick applications while not turning. So I believe that the answer to your question is yes, you should be able to considerably smooth out if not completely smooth out a rough concrete surface using the Concrete Camouflage brand of sealers and wax.
The afore mentioned is in regard to cosmetics, the look if the concrete. The feel of it will be of a sealed and waxed surface even if you only do the standard two coats.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com
800 650 1157

How do I fix an old, dull, and scuffed up stained floor?

2010-06-15T11:08:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I had my basement floor stamped concrete(acid stain) I've noticed that the floor is dull and my kids sneaker marks are all over the floor. Can you suggest any polish I can use to put the shine back like a wax and how to remove the scuff marks. I've tried various cleaners and nothing seems to work.

Hello Karen,

A. - You can remove the sneaker marks with a citrus stripper or heavy duty glue remover from a local store, or you can order the Concrete Stain Prep stripper from Concrete Camouflage which should remove them quite easily as it is used to remove tire marks from driveways and garages. It wouldn't take much because you would spot strip the marks and then mix the stripper with water in a mop bucket and use it to mop and thoroughly clean the floor. Mix 1 quart of CSP to a mop bucket of clean water. Afterwards you would mop it a couple times with clean water only, ensuring you change the water often.
Then you should apply two coats of Clear Shield Advanced decorative concrete sealer and then two coats of Top Shield mop on style floor wax, both by Concrete Camouflage.

Can I cover the stain while it dries?

2010-06-04T13:50:00.001-05:00

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Q. - During this time of year in my area storms are frequent and unpredictable. My question: once the stain has been applied and is (mostly) dry can it be covered with any kind of waterproof cover for the duration of the 24 hour curing period? Or, will it react and mess-up the final result?
Thanks!

Hello Lyn,

A. - It should be left open if at all possible. If a covering was to sit down on the concrete it would print the concrete much like walking in it would leave footprints. Also, many waterproof coverings will have the effect of not allowing the concrete to dry. Therefore, if at all possible you should wait for a good weather window. Of course if rain was to wash it off and it didn't have enough reaction time to create a good color, then you could apply an additional coat of stain once it dries out, but again this is not the preferred method.

To cover and protect the walls and baseboards or not?

2010-06-01T13:32:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I'm fixing to stain the floor of my garage and paint the walls. Would it be OK if I stained the floor without protecting the molding and the wall since I plan to paint it? I guess the real question is: Will the stain harm wood or sheet rock? Would covering it with a good paint be easy?

Hello William,

A. - The concrete stain will stain the walls and wood a darker color and make it harder to paint as any darker surface would be. I would recommend you either cover it or at least use a painters shield on a handle to help protect the walls as much as you can. The stain will not have a destructive effect on the sheetrock or wood, but why make more work for yourself doing all those extra coats of paint to blend it in if you can easily prevent it.

How do I remove roller marks from acrylic stains?

2010-06-01T13:10:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I just applied another manufacturers semi-transparent concrete stain to my patio with a roller and now have some roller marks. It has not been sealed yet what can I do to remove marks or make them less noticeable? I saw another person had a simular problem and you said to neutralize and apply second coat of stain. what do you use to neutralize it?

Hello Randy,

A. - Those tips only apply to acid stains. What you are using is an acrylic stain, which is actually not a concrete stain at all but is rather a disguised concrete paint. You will need to proceed as you would with a paint in order to correct and/or complete your project. Using concrete stain tips will not help. You should probably just roll on another coat, going in a different direction than the first. or spray on another coat. Allow to dry and then apply two coats of a good acrylic sealer. However, please note that we only work with concrete acid stains and so it may be a good idea to contact the manufacturer of the product you used in order to ensure correct application.

Do I neutralize it or just rinse it?

2010-06-01T12:57:00.000-05:00

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Q. - The only thing that I don't quite understand is the residue cleaning stage. I bought the artist grade stain and I thought I read that the "dryed" residue for this product only had to be rinsed with clean water. Or, does it first have to be neutralized with ammonia and water before a final rinsing like the other grade stains? Thanks!

Hello Lyn,

A. - You need to allow the stain to dry until it is completely dry. And at least a few hours and up to 24 hours. The longer you let it react then the darker it will be. You then need to neutralize it, and then rinse it a couple of times with clean water. This should be done for any acid stain.

I stained my patio a week ago, can I still do another coat?

2010-05-18T09:31:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I already stained the concrete with your artist grade stain a week ago I think it needs another coat is it to late to give it another coat.

Hello Michael,

A. - So long as you have not sealed it then you can go ahead with another coat. Once it is sealed then any sealer would have to be stripped completely off in order to stain further.

What's the difference in solvent base and water base sealers?

2010-05-13T14:55:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I would like to know the difference between the solvent based, and water based sealers. Which would be better for my situation.

Hello Chad,

A. - Currently the new advanced formula water based decorative concrete sealer is by far the most popular sealer, from diy to contractors.

The solvent base makes the concrete look like it does when it is saturated wet. It has a shiny glossy finish. It can be slippery especially when wet as you apply it in two generous coats. A traction additive can be added to the solvent based sealer that will help but it will still be more slippery. The only way to adequately reduce the slipperiness is as in interior applications when the Top Shield floor wax is applied.

The water base sealer is a green product sealer. It allows the concrete to still breath. It makes the concrete look like it does when it is damp, and has a satin finish. Because you apply it in two as thin and even of coats as you can, it tends to have a much less slipperiness factor than the solvent based sealer, though it can still be more slippery than non sealed concrete. The water base sealer is less expensive than the solvent based sealer.

Will the sealer hold water in a fountain?

2010-05-11T10:08:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I have a decorative statue the I want to stain. It is also a water fountain. I was wondering if the sealer that you sell would seal my fountain enough to hold water?

Hello Chad,

A. - The sealers at Concrete Camouflage are primarily for use as a means to seal off the surface of the concrete from sun, moisture, elements, and contaminants, but will in no way hold water or assist in holding water in a fountain or basin type application. It's value would lie in surface protection and cosmetic value.

How do I get my score lines up to the walls?

2010-05-06T09:57:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I have drawn out my pattern (diagonal tile 18"x18" and I am ready to score. I have the diamond edge circular saw blade. My question is, How do I score next to walls and under a small fence where the saw will not reach? Does someone make a hand tool that I can rub/scrape a grove 1/16" into the areas I mentioned? Thank you in advance for you reply.

Hello Jeff,

A. - The best thing to do when scoring up to walls, and it actually looks much better as it adds additional decoration, is to score a border along the walls and then take your score lines to the border. Borders typically look best at about 8" +/- out from the wall.

When should I score it? Before or after the concrete staining?

2010-05-05T12:09:00.002-05:00

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Q. - How soon is too soon to clean m concrete patio before I stain. My order was shipped yesterday and I ma not be able to stain for about a week. However, I am not at work the next two days and would like to clean the surface now. Is that too soon? Must the surface be completly dry for a few days? 2nd question. If I were to etch a pattern in to the concrete, do I do that before the first coat, between the 1st and 2nd coat and how would I make the groves stand out and not look just like the rest of the patio. Does it naturally look different or do I NEED to trace it with different colors.

Hello Jeff,

A. - You can go ahead and clean it if you like. So long as it stays clean you'll be ok, even if you just rinse it off and allow it to dry before you stain it. It doesn't have to dry any long time before staining it, it just needs to be dry.
You would either score it before final clean and staining, or after it was stained and washed off, but before sealing it. If you score it before, then the stain will settle into the score marks and make them slightly darker than the rest of the concrete so they will still stand out. If you score after you have stained it then the score marks will be the color of natural concrete and of course stand out. It really just depends on your score mark color preference, whether you want the score marks to be colored (slightly darker than the concrete will be), or the color of natural concrete.
Most people score first and then stain and seal. However, the score lines will naturally stand out and have the 3D effect that you're looking for, regardless of which you select.
If you do score afterwards though, be sure and and neutralize and rinse off the residue and let it dry for a day or two before scoring so the stain will be locked in good, and also, be careful to not scratch it. Then rinse it off well, allow it to dry and seal it.

Also, if you get a few extra minutes and would like a smile and maybe a laugh or two, check out www.EarlWayne.com

Oh no! I rolled on the concrete stain and have roller marks! What to do?

2010-05-05T11:48:00.006-05:00

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Q. - It's me again. As previously stated, I'm working on a standard, exterior slab of concrete that is approx. 4 yrs old. Yesterday, I used a paint brush and lightly coated leather brown on the smooth border w/amazing results - love it! However, today I used a roller (afraid to use the sprayer b/c of wind) with my island sand. Not only do I have horriblle roller and brush (edging) marks, my patio is very distinctly 2 colors - beigy brown and bright yellow. I'm very scared. Is this normal? Any suggestions? Would lightly spraying the leather brown over the top help at all?

Hello Valerie,

A. - Oops. Unfortunately you found out why you never use a roller when applying concrete stain, and why you always brush in a circular motion. Not to worry though, you can still make it much better, and maybe even better than it would have been otherwise. When you neutralize and wash it off, be sure to use a scrub brush to try and scrub down the bad areas, roller marks, and brush marks as best you can to lighten those up as much as possible, and give it a good scrub overall. Then you can rinse it well and allow it to dry and do a second coat. What would really be best is if you just spray it on. You can either do the second coat with Island Sand or the Leather Brown, but the Leather Brown will darken it up quite a bit.
I would do the second coat with Island Sand. Then you could highlight it with either a third coat of Island Sand or the Leather Brown. Highlighting it with Leather Brown would probably look really good. To highlight it you do this: when you spray on the overall coat of stain you will hold the sprayer nozzle about a foot or so above the concrete, but when you spray on the highlight coat, you will hold the nozzle at waist high to shoulder high so you just lightly mist the concrete. You can even fluctuate the sprayer from waist high to shoulder high and back and forth to have heavier and lighter areas of the highlighting if you like. Doing this, you can really camouflage quite allot.

Also, if you get an extra few minutes, and could use a smile and maybe a laugh or two, check out this website, www.EarlWayne.com

What if I have a curing agent on my concrete?

2010-05-04T17:09:00.001-05:00

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Q. - Can I still stain my concrete even though it had a curing agent used? If so what do I need to do and how? Thanks

Hello Noel,

A. - Many times, certain curing agents will wear off on their own, so first you need to determine if the curing agent is still present. You can do this by pouring water on it to see if it readily soaks in which means it is likely not a problem, or if it beads up and/or just kinda sits there a while which usually means the curing agent still needs removed. Another method is to get down on the concrete and use a pocket knife to scrape the surface of the concrete, a curing agent will scrape off and be like a waxy substance.

If it does in fact still have the curing agent on it, you will need a citrus type stripper or our CSP stripper to remove the curing agent. If you do not get it all up with the stripping, then will need to lightly sand it using either a rented commercial floor sander or a floor buffing machine with the fine grit sanding disks. Then you can go forward with staining.

What about grease and rust spots?

2010-05-04T16:56:00.001-05:00

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Q. - We are pretty much ready to go! I scored squares on a diagonal yesterday and power washed. Question - I have a grease stain from our grill and a few small rust stains. Can I or should I try to remove these? Can I use bleach for the rust or do you have any other suggestions? I tried the tsp on the grease, but although the surface grease is gone, there is still a circle of darker color due to the grease. My assumption is that the acid will not penetrate this spot. Any help you could provide would be appreciated!!

Hello Val,

A. - The grease spot will try to keep the stain from soaking in and working. You can use the degreaser we offer or some other brand of concrete degreaser on the grease spot to lift any grease and/or residues out of the pores. The stain will take care of the rest.

You can try the bleach if you like, it may work on the rust, though it could make a lighter area which could look worse in the long run. However, when you stain it many times the acid in the stain will remove the rust spot and/or the stain color will camouflage the rust spot.

I believe I would use a concrete degreaser for the grease spot, followed by a TSP cleaning and good rinse down, and ignore the rust spot and go forward with staining after it has dried.

Can I use the new water based sealer over the traditional solvent based sealer?

2010-04-29T17:17:00.001-05:00

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Q. - For the last two years, I have purchased the non-water based, "old fashioned" sealer for our outdoor patio. I need to reseal again this year. Can I use the new, water based product even though I've used the other stuff in year's past? Your products are awesome!

Hello Danielle,

A. - Yes you can. You can put water based sealers on top of solvent based sealers, but you can never put solvent based sealers over water based. Thank You for Your comment, you'll really like the new advanced formula water based sealer. It is a satin finish which is more natural looking on exterior applications, along with being a better yet less expensive, and also a "green product" sealer.

Will the concrete stain wear away off my pool deck?

2010-04-29T10:23:00.001-05:00

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Q. - The area is around our pool. Not sure if I want to seal it and have the shinier finish. if I don't seal, will the stain wear away?

Hello Sandy,

The stain will not wear away unless the surface of the concrete wears away. The acid stain soaks into the concrete and permanently changes the surface of the concrete to the new color. It does not sit on top like paint or acrylic/transparent stains do. If you decide to seal it, then the Clear Shield Advanced has a satin finish which looks more natural outdoors.

You may want to do a test area using your pool equipment pad. You could test different colors to decide which you like best and also you could test sealing part of the color tests and leave part unsealed to see which you prefer in that regards also. Not only can you check the stain color and the cosmetics value of applying the sealer, you can then pour some water on the sealed parts and check for any potential slipperiness as well.

Can I still stain if I acid washed my concrete?

2010-04-18T10:46:00.001-05:00

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Q. - I have used Muriatic Acid around my pool to try to clean the concrete. Will that affect staining the concrete.

Hello Brian,

A. - Most stains will not stain concrete that has been cleaned with muriatic acid. However, Concrete Camouflage artist grade stain is one of the only stains that will still stain concrete that has been acid washed. Though it will not be quite as dark and/or rich a color as it would have been. Therefore, you will need to definitely saturate the concrete well without putting so much that it would puddle, and allow it to dry and react for a good 24 hours or so before neutralizing it.

Can I restain my older and allready stained patio?

2010-04-18T10:36:00.000-05:00

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Q. - When we purchased our home, the concrete patio was stained. From what I can tell (the water doesn't bead up on it), the concrete was not sealed. The stain is starting to fade (no patio cover) and wear in high traffic areas. I need to restain and from what I have read, acid staining may not work due to lime leaching due to the age of the concrete. Any suggestions on restaining the concrete.

Hello Bill,

A. - Concrete Camouflage stains are Artist Grade. They will stain concrete when most all the others will not. First be sure that the patio does not have an acrylic stain(disguised paint) on it, as well as no sealer, oil, or grease. Then, you should give it a try. The stain is fairly inexpensive and you have much more to gain than to lose at this point. I would suggest that you seal it this time, using Concrete Camouflage's new advanced formula water base sealer.

You can do a test on an out of the way place to see if it works first. It wouldn't take but a very small area, say, a couple inches or so square to see. You could order the stain first and then order the sealer afterwards once you are sure you like the stain job, if you like.

A few questions about concrete staining and scoring my patio.

2010-04-14T12:53:00.000-05:00

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Q. - Our home was new construction just under 4 yrs ago so my assumption is that the concrete is sealed.

A. - Why do you believe your concrete is sealed? It is usually only sealed if it has been colored in some way. Here's a good test: pour some water on it. If the water beads up or just sits there a while then it is likely sealed. If it soaks right in then it is likely not sealed.

Q. - If it is sealed, Our patio slab is 10'x10', can you please let me know how much of the product I need to buy to strip the sealer as well as the tsp?

A. - If you do need to strip it then probably about 2 gallons of stripper is what you would need. Only 1 small box of TSP will be needed.

Q. - Everything else needed is in the Concrete Camouflage project kit, correct? Also, how long is typical delivery? Thank you, Val

A. - Yes. You will get the stain and sealer in the kit. If you want to purchase the tools that you will need then you will need to add a 1 gallon sprayer, an applicator brush if you want to also use the brush(just spraying only is what most people do), a paint roller, a roller cover and a paint pan.

Delivery takes one business day to process the order and KS takes about 2 business days to ship. Which means you would have your order in just a few days(not including weekends or holidays)

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Q. - Thanks so much! Looking forward to giving this a shot – although I'm a little nervous. I also purchased the stain prep degreaser/cleaner. I did contact our builder and you were right, the concrete was not sealed. Everything seems pretty straightforward. I'm surprised that more people don't do this. And I was even more surprised that local home improvement stores don't carry "acid" concrete stain. The reviews I read of acrylic concrete stain were not good.

One last question. We were going to use a diamond blade on a saw to cut a diagonal square pattern into our patio. I read somewhere to do this very last that way the affect will be that of grout. Any comments/suggestions? Thank you, Val

Hello Valerie

A. - No need to be nervous, concrete staining is straight forward and very simple. Just be sure to either read through the Concrete Staining guide at Concrete Camouflage, or listen to the audio book.

The reviews about acrylic stains being no good is correct and you are wise to stay away from acrylic stains. Even if the locals did carry concrete acid stain it would be a watered down homeowner grade rather than an artist grade such as Concrete Camouflage, so it is actually a good thing that they don't carry it. You're much better off.

If you score it first, then the stain will settle into the score lines and be a little bit darker so it will look like colored grout, that is darker than the concrete. If you score it afterward then it will be the color of natural concrete and look like uncolored grout. Either looks good. Most people score first, though many do score afterward. Just be sure to use a diamond blade as masonry blades get smaller as they cut and you would be constantly adjusting the saw to stay consistent. Also remember to only score about 1/16" to 1/8" deep. Any deeper and you are only creating a dirt trap.

Have a Good Day

Is concrete stain toxic to pets?

2010-04-12T09:39:00.000-05:00

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Q. - Is concrete stain toxic for small pets? We are thinking of using it on our concrete in our backyard.

Hello Donna,

A. - It does have a diluted acid in it, the same kind used in swimming pools though much more diluted down. So it is toxic while the stain is in the bottle, during use, and while the project is in process.

However, once you have completed the project, and neutralized and rinsed off the residue, and allowed it to dry, and sealed it, and allowed that to completely dry, it is no longer toxic. So be sure to keep your pets away from the project until it is complete and completely dried.

Will the floor be slippery?

2010-04-11T09:42:00.001-05:00

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Q. - after the concrete staining process is complete, is the floor going to be slick or slippery?

Hello Christine,

A. - If you stain it only then it will be the same as it is now. If you stain it and seal it only, then the sealer can make it more slippery, especially when wet. The solvent base sealer is definitely more slippery and the new advanced formula water base sealer is not near as slippery as the solvent base, but since it is still a coating on the surface it will usually be slightly more slippery than if left unsealed, when used on very smooth concrete such as a floor.

However, It shouldn't be any more slippery than it is now, and possibly even less slippery than it is now, if you wax it with the Top Shield floor wax after staining and sealing it. Top Shield floor wax was designed for commercial applications originally and it has traction characteristics built in.

Can I use Top Shield floor wax over existing waxes?

2010-04-05T15:30:00.001-05:00

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Q. - Hi, we used another manufacturers concrete stain on our concrete floor, their sealer and then their wax - well the wax has worn off AND the finish is beginning to chip and peel in some very high traffic areas which we were told would NOT happen but anyway, we are looking for a wax to stop this from happening - what I want to know is is it okay to put Top Shield floor wax over our sealed floors that still have some of their wax on? their wax had to be burnished on - big mess - and I don't know how much of it is left on the floor - obviously it isn't doing its job b/c of the chipping- what is your suggestion for our application - what do we need to clean with first and do we need to strip? I'm afraid if we strip whatever wax is left it will strip the sealer too - also we have a toddler - how much fumes/odor does your mop on wax have? Their wax claims to also be a sealer by the way -- don't know if that makes a difference but you could use the wax only to seal the floor - we used the wax on top of spray on sealer b/c it scratched so easy so they recommended waxing on top so it was "double sealed" Thanks for your help.

Hello Angel,

A. - Typically you should strip any existing waxes before applying Top Shield floor wax. You can do so with a commercial floor wax remover. If you would like to try using Top Shield floor wax over theirs, it may be worth a try, though it is not recommended. If you choose to do so, I highly recommend you test it first. In the event you still had to strip it then it would be no big deal and if you didn't then you could apply more.

I know that Top Shield floor wax currently out sales all our other products because it is being used by just about everyone that knows about it, both residential and commercial, so I feel confident that you will like it too. You never need a buffing machine and it lasts for months before scuffing or dulling and when it does scuff or dull, you just apply a fresh coat and it's back to like it was when you initially did it.

I'm just not sure about putting it over another wax. We are instructed to always tell our customers to strip any other manufacturers wax prior to applying Top Shield, but in all honesty, you never really know how it will react. It may work and it may not. That's why if you are really resistant to stripping your old wax, you should at least give it a test first.

I understand your concerns about if you try to strip what's existing then you will have to reseal it. However, if you did completely strip the wax and sealer then you could use our new Clear Shield Advanced formula water base sealer to reseal it and then use Top Shield floor wax over that and you would definitely be happy with the performance from here on.

The wax is a green product as is the new sealer. They both have the lowest VOC's available and so odor should not be a problem at all.

To seal or not to seal. On a patio that is.

2010-03-29T20:13:00.001-05:00

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Q. - Hello... I emailed earlier about your slate concrete stain and if you had an example of the finished product. I think your site is great and we are very interested and I think you explained it best... we really feel that we can do this ourselves after reading all of this. Another question that I have is about the concrete sealer. Do you think it would still be slippery with "brushed" concrete? It is on a patio an we recently put a roof and half walls around it (in OH). We like the idea of bringing out the color but do not want a slippery patio. Thanks

Hello Thomas,

A. - That's kind of a trick question. Any time you put sealer on concrete it can and usually will be more slippery than if left unsealed. The solvent base sealer and most sealers that matter would definitely be more slippery.

The new advanced formula water base sealer is applied in two, as thin as possible and even as possible coats. So if the concrete is brushed well and you apply it in two thin coats, then theoretically it will not be more slippery. However, if the concrete is not brushed well and/or you apply it in heavy coats rather than thin coats, it could be more slippery.

Of course the new water base sealer is designed to be less slippery, and you do apply it in thin coats, and your concrete is brushed, so it seems that you would be just fine with the water base sealer. Yet at the same time I do not want to get you or me in trouble.

So, that being said, you can stain it first and then decide if you want to seal it. If you like the way it looks without sealer then you're good. If you like the way it looks when it is damp with water better, then you would like the sealed with the water base sealer better.

Of course you could do a small sample test area with the sealer to see if it is more slippery or not, and then decide if you should seal or not. If you decide to seal it you can go ahead at that time, and if not then you can easily strip the sealer off the test area.

Is concrete stain compatible with radiant floor heat?

2010-03-29T11:53:00.001-05:00

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Q. - Is concrete camouflage application compatible with in floor radiant heat? (water in tubes in concrete) I'm concerned that the heat could impact or change the color after its applied. Also, want to make sure the heat doesn't cause the stain to emit an odor or affect the sealer finish.
Thanks. MJ

Hello MJ,

Yes. Concrete Camouflage products are compatible with in floor radiant heat. There should be no issues at all. There are many floors with in floor radiant heat, all across America and beyond, that are stained, sealed and waxed with the Concrete Camouflage family of products.

We do recommend that you not only use the artist grade of concrete stain and seal the floor, but also that you wax it with our Top Shield mop on floor wax.

What should I do about cracks in the concrete?

2010-03-25T11:11:00.004-05:00

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Q. - My driveway has a lot of cracks in it. I desperately want to improve the look of it. Is there any way to fill in the cracks so they don't stick out like a sore thumb if I stain it? Surely the professionals use something to fill in cracks before concrete staining. I appreciate your comments!!

Hello Lillian,

A. - If they are hairline cracks then you should leave them alone as they will actually add character to the drive once it is stained. They may look bad on plain concrete but they tend to look cool on stained concrete, giving it more of a real stone kind of look. Anyway, if you do patch them the patch material will likely stain a different color than the rest of the concrete and tend to stand out more, like a sore thumb.
If they are not hairline, but rather large cracks which you can put a coin into or bigger, then there are ways to patch and stain them though it is a process.

You can use a concrete patch material or concrete resurfacing material. Or you can mix portland and sand together along with some water and a small amount of bonding agent.
You would purchase a small amount of every one of the different patching materials available at your local home improvement or lumber store. Then you would do a small sample board using cardboard or wood. Mix each material as directed on it's label, and put a small amount, about 6" to 12" square or so on the board or cardboard. Let them all dry for at least a few days, or as directed on their labels. Then you can do some color tests.
Do a concrete stain color test on your concrete in an out of the way place and stain the patch samples that you made. Then you can see which one will come the closest to matching the color the concrete is going to be. You can always use a brush and give them a second coat to darken them up if you need to.

Also you can help camouflage the cracks or patched cracks by using stain colors that tend to give multiple colors, like Honey Oak, Riverstone, and many others that Concrete Camouflage offers. Additionally, you can do one coat overall, then after it dries, you can spray on a second coat using the same color or a different color, holding the sprayer up higher and dropping it lower and then back higher and so forth as you go, and therefore highlighting it to help bring out more color variances.
Another way to highlight it is to simply hold the sprayer about waste to shoulder height when applying the second coat. That's how you do a tortoise shell look. You would use a light color first and hold the sprayer about a foot or so high when spraying the first coat. Then you use a darker color for the second coat and hold the sprayer higher up so it just highlights as mentioned above.

Can I use a snow shovel on stained concrete outdoors?

2010-03-08T12:10:00.000-06:00

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Q. - Hello, I live in Wisconsin and we get quite a bit of snow. I was wondering, is it ok to shovel snow if I have stain my concrete?

Thanks, Greg.

Hello Greg,

A. - Concrete will scratch just as easily as a wood floor will. Therefore, when you know you're going to need to shovel snow, there are two points to keep in mind and you should be ok.

You should purchase a hard plastic snow shovel. The metal shovels will scratch concrete much easier than a hard plastic shovel.

You may want to seal the concrete with at least a couple and maybe even three coats of a good concrete sealer. This will act as a barrier which will help protect the concrete's surface from scratching as easily. Remember though, sealed concrete is usually more slippery than unsealed concrete. When using Clear Shield solvent base sealer, or any solvent base sealer for that matter, you should use a traction additive such as Clear Grip by Concrete Camouflage. If you use Clear Shield Advanced water base sealer, you can forego the traction additive if you choose, as it is typically less slippery than solvent based sealers.

Will Concrete Stain Work On Cinder Block Walls?

2010-03-04T10:03:00.001-06:00

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Q. - Hi, Would the artist grade concrete stain work on an exterior 25 year old unpainted cinderblock wall?
Thanks. -JB

Hello Joe,

A. - Yes, the artist grade concrete stain will work great on cinder blocks. Concrete Camouflage has several customers around the country that has used it on cinder blocks, for both walls and house foundations. Actually many people are staining their walls and house foundation sides, both cinder block and concrete. We tested the stain on cinder blocks several years ago and it worked very well.
A few points though. Cinder block is extremely porous and so it will take more stain. Your coverage will likely be around 200 square feet max per gallon of artist grade stain. You will still spray it on but you will need to have a brush handy to brush behind the sprayer thereby removing any runs that you may get, as you go. Brush in a circular motion. Also, you will still want to wash it down with a hose after it has dried, but I wouldn't recommend sealing it unless you just want to seal off the blocks themselves. Otherwise the natural flat look may look better. However, if you do decide to seal it, then you could use the new advanced formula sealer, Clear Shield Advanced which has a satin finish, and would make the wall look like it will when it is damp after you've washed it down and it is drying from the washing.

Which sealer is best?

2010-02-26T10:21:00.001-06:00

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Q. - Patio approx 14 x 20. dogs paws leave hard to remove mud prints!!!! Need advice if sealer application will allow easier cleanup with hose? Type of sealer? Ease of application is important since I'm an elderly female. Confidence it will achieve my objective. Thank You.

Hello Joyce,

A. - Sealing the concrete with a quality concrete sealer will definitely help. The mud is hard to clean because it is getting into the pores of the concrete. If you seal it then it will be much easier to clean. Cleaning with a hose should work out fine then.
The solvent base sealer would be easier to use, however, your state has outlawed solvent base sealers, so you have to use a water base. Don't feel bad though as 1 most states have either outlawed solvent base sealers or are about to, and 2 fortunately Clear Shield Advanced by Concrete Camouflage has been released and will actually outperform solvents in many ways, while being less expensive as well. I don't know of any water base sealer that is worth using other than Clear Shield Advanced. Old technology water base sealers are just junk. The advanced formula in CSA makes it well worth your time and money, though it was designed for decorative concrete, it works on all types of concrete and cultured stone.
You will need 2 gallons. You will apply 2 coats. You will first thoroughly clean the concrete and allow it to dry. You can power wash it to clean it, or you can use a brush and bucket with TSP and water,( or at least a good strong soap/detergent and water.) Scrub it clean with the brush and then flood rinse it really well a couple of times to ensure you get all the TSP/soap out of the pores and completely rinsed down. Use plenty of water when rinsing. Allow it to dry (you can tell it is dry by looks) and apply the sealer. You will pour the Clear Shield Advanced into a paint pan and use a paint roller to just paint roll it on. Use a minimum 1/4" nap and a maximum 3/8" nap roller cover. Apply the concrete sealer as thin as possible. Spread it out as thin and as evenly as you can. Allow the first coat to dry a couple hours +/-, until it is dry and no longer sticky. Clear Shield Advanced goes on a milky white which lets you clearly see where you've sealed, and then dries clear. Anyway, after the first coat dries, roll on the second coat. Try to go opposite directions when applying the different coats. For instance, you could go North/South on the first coat and East/West on the second. That is if it's possible to do that and still work your way backwards so you're not walking in wet sealer. Be sure to let dry until completely clear and for at least 10 to 12 hours (24 hours is better), before allowing any foot or pet traffic on it.

Should I remove old stain before applying new? How do I tell between acrylic and acid stains?

2010-02-22T10:58:00.002-06:00

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Q. - I have a porch & two small pieces of sidewalk that have been stained. The stain is flaking off and I want to restain it. Do I have to completely remove all the old stain or can I prep the surface with something and go over the existing stain?

Hello Kerri,

A. - Acid stain would not flake off. Therefore the flaking must either be because the stain is an acrylic stain aka water base stain (aka concrete paint using the name "concrete stain" with the sole purpose of tricking you into painting your concrete while separating you from your cash), or it could be that you do have an acid stain and only the sealer is flaking.
So, if you know it's an acrylic stain, then yes, it must be completely removed in order to properly restain it with an acid stain which will not peel or flake. If you go over it with an acrylic stain it will only become an even worse issue down the road.
If you don't know if it's an acid stain or acrylic, then you can test it by pouring some water on it. If when it is wet, the areas that have flaked still have the color as the rest of it, then it is likely an acid stain and only the sealer is flaking, which means that you only need to remove the sealer and reapply some fresh sealer. If it remains the color of concrete when it is wet in the flaking areas then it is likely an acrylic stain and must be completely removed.

How do I do a border? Should I sand the floor?

2010-02-17T09:29:00.002-06:00

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Q. - I had glue down carpet and have stripped the glue off. Do you recommend a light sanding with a floor buffer and if so, what grit should I use.

Also, I wanted to do 1 foot border around the room that would be darker than the middle. What would be the best way to accomplish this? Would I tape off 1 section while the other is being sprayed and then seal it and then do the other section once ther sealer has cured? Or would I need to seal both sections at the same time?

Hello Juan,

Normally I would not suggest sanding if the floor is clean and contaminant free. However, since you had glue down carpet then I would suggest a light sanding using the finest grit they have available.
You should brush on the border first and then spray the entire floor after the border dries. When brushing on the border, set your brush down in the center of the border or near the wall and in a circular motion, work the brush towards the edge that meets the other color. Then you will be dragging the stain to the edge which will help prevent from coloring over the line.
Let it all dry. Neutralize and rinse it all together, and then seal it all together, then apply the floor wax.

Removing glue

2010-02-11T16:54:00.001-06:00

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Q. - I'm trying to stain a floor in my house that was covered with vinyl tile and mastic. I've removed the glue with glue removers. I have also used a drill and paint stripping disc that is very coarse. My question is will using the stripping disc seal the pores in the concrete or will it still be stainable. Also there was a hole filler used to fill small imperfections in the concrete surface. Although not removing it out of the small dimples is necessary(I feel it will allow for a little variation) what can I use to remove where it is smeared? Thanks for any advice and looking forward to using your product. Jason

Hello Jason,

The disk shouldn't cause an issue at all, if anything, you may use slightly more stain and sealer. However, if you still have contaminants in the pores, that would be an issue. A good test is water. If the water soaks right into the concrete then you should be ok, but if the water kinda sits there awhile, then you may still need to lightly sand the floor with a rented commercial floor sander like they use on wood floors or even a floor buffing machine with the sanding disks.

Depending on what the filler is made of, your glue removers may work, otherwise you may want to lightly sand it.

Is stain ok for pool decks? Should I seal it?

2010-01-25T09:45:00.001-06:00

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Hello Gabriel,

Q.- I have concrete around my pool, will the stain hold up to the chemicals of the water?

Yes it will. Acid stain is perfect for pool decks and is used more and more everyday. If you were to visit an amusement park that had water rides or waterfalls, then odds are that the rocks and boulders and waterfalls are all made of concrete and stained with a concrete acid stain.

Q.- If yes, would it be better to seal it?

If you use the new Clear Shield Advanced Formula water base decorative concrete sealer by Concrete Camouflage, then you may want to seal it at least the first time, though you don't have to. The stain is permanent and will hold up fine without being sealed. The surface of the concrete would have to wear away before the color would.

Sealing it will effect the cosmetics, meaning that it will enhance the colors and usually make it look better, while also sealing off the pores of the concrete from both moisture and UV, thereby increasing the lifespan of the concrete. However, If you seal it then it may be more slippery, depending on your concrete finish, so be sure to do a test first.

Q.- If yes, will it be slippery?
Solvent base sealers will definitely be more slippery. The new advanced formula water base concrete sealer by Concrete Camouflage is not near as slippery and on some concrete finishes is not slippery at all. So be sure to do a test first.

Added Advice: You could do both the color tests and the sealer tests on the pool equipment pad.

How do I remove paint from my floor before staining?

2010-01-15T10:56:00.001-06:00

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Q. - Hey, thanks for the help. One more question! Can you give any suggestions on stripping the paint and prepping the floor, about 1300 sq.' Thanks again,

Hello Greg,

Important: Be sure to read all labels on all products, including warnings, before opening and/or using.

A. - If you can use a power washer it would likely take it off easily since it is peeling already. Otherwise...

Ensure you have plenty of ventilation and turn off all heat sources and or pilot lights as well as any gas of course. Then use a stiff straw scrub brush on a broom handle (you can purchase one at Concrete Camouflage if you can't find one local, as most places don't carry them) it is very important that you use a stiff straw scrub brush, they are hard to find, but an absolute necessity. I can't stress the importance of the brush enough. Stiff and Straw. Not a straw push broom, a brush.

Work in sections, working your backwards and out the door.

Anyway, pour some Xylene (this is very flammable) or a Good Citrus Type Stripper or even a heavy duty glue remover, onto the concrete and let it sit until the paint is softened, keeping it wet and moving around and redistributing the Xylene or Stripper as needed. Then pour some more Xylene or Stripper on and begin to scrub the paint until it reliquifies completely, adding more if needed (don't walk in it). Then use a painters shield or wide scraper ( a painters shield works best) to scrape the paint into a pile and use a square shovel to scoop it up and place it into a bucket to be carried out. You need to get all the paint up, so after it has dried you can repeat if needed. Again, don't walk in it while it is still wet.

After you have stripped as much paint as you can, you may still need to lightly sand the floor to complete, depending on how well it came off during stripping. If you do need to sand it, then you can go to a tool/equipment rental store and rent a commercial floor sander, like used on wood floors, or you can use a floor buffing machine with the sanding disks. Then just give a final clean with T.S.P. and water and a final couple rinsings with clean water only. Allow to dry and you should be good to go.

Pay attention when your mopping it, to see if the water soaks right into the concrete, or if just kinda sits there a while. If it soaks right in, then the stain should also. If the water doesn't soak in and just stands, then you're not through prepping.

I hope this helps.

What if I acid washed an area?

2010-01-11T10:20:00.001-06:00

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Q. - My wife and I have used your products before and were very pleased with the results. We're now finishing the other side of our basement and have everything already ordered and in hand to start staining. We had some water down there a couple of times that caused some rust stains in a couple of spots on the floor. I asked around at local paint shops and big box hardware stores and the consensus answer was muriatic acid to get the rust off of the concrete, so that's what we did.

It was diluted as per the instructions on the container, and it did remove the rust, but it also appears to have 'eaten' away at the top layer of the concrete where it was applied, as this is much more rough to the touch and you can see what's probably sand.

We're planning on staining tonight and I'm really not too concerned about it, but I wanted to check with you to see if there were any dangers in proceeding with staining these areas. Thank you.

Hello Kyle,

There are no dangers, though the acid wash is the worst possible thing you could have done when using concrete stain. However, the good news is that Concrete Camouflage brand of concrete stains will still perform in such a situation when most others will not. Yet it may not take the stain quite as well in that area now. Therefore you will likely need to go heavy in that area and/or plan on letting it dry completely and give it a feathered in second coat.
Also, the roughness will cause the concrete sealer to soak in much more than the rest of the floor, which could cause a dry looking area. So lightly spot seal that area with a coat or two first, and then seal the entire floor, including over those areas. Once you get enough sealer on, and once you get a couple coats of floor wax on, that area should smooth out and be not near as noticeable.

How to use multiple colors for highlighting

2010-01-04T21:31:00.001-06:00

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Q. - Ask Your Question Here:: Can multiple stains be applied to the same surface to create a unique look? If so, would it be applied at the same time or one after another when dry? Perhaps a Leather stain over a Sand stain to add deeper colors in some areas etc? If I score or cut kerf marks in the floor and want to apply different colored stains should I tape off the adjacent area before staining? Also if long scores are done replicating wood flooring is there a way to make the stain have streaks or veins looking like grain or at least a pattern running parallel with the saw marks?

Hello Robert,

A. - Yes they can. You would apply the lighter color first and allow to dry completely. Then lightly apply the darker color and allow to dry. Wash it all together.

You should not tape off the adjecent areas, rather you should use a brush and small bucket. Dip the brush, shake off the excess, set it down away from the edge and brush in a circular motion so that when you reach the edge, the brush is running dry and you are dragging the stain to the edge.

The Island Sand, or the Rosewood may allow you to apply it and then run a brush down it, leaving brush marks in the finish, replicating wood grain.

Remeber to do some tests first to be sure of technique and color.

Using concrete stain and skim coat on basement walls

2009-12-30T10:32:00.001-06:00

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Q. - I would like to skim coat a very dry basement wall to get rid of the concrete form lines and then finish with artist grade concrete stain. I do not work with concrete so I would appreciate any advice. Also, what would you recommend to give the project a very nice finished look?
thanks

Hello Wes,

A. - While the supplier of the skim coat should be able to give you most all the info you need on the skim coating process, I can offer a couple of thoughts. Be sure that use a pool trowel. It has rounded corners so as to not leave lines and allowing you to get a smoother finish overall. Also, depending on which kind you use, it can dry quickly, so be aware of the skim coats drying time, and finally, be sure to prepare the wall well. Whether it be with a grinder, or sandblast, or sand, or whatever, and also discuss using a bonding agent with the skim coat supplier.

As for the concrete stain, it will be simple. Spray it on as you would a floor, but be sure someone is following behind with a soft bristle brush. Lightly brushing in a circular motion to take out any runs as you go. Be sure to consider where the water will be going when you neutralize and wash the walls down. Of course you can attempt to carefully mop the walls with mops, and/or sponges/rags. Be aware that though it is best to wash the walls down well, the wash off water will still have the capacity to stain, so again, carefully consider all steps before beginning.

We recommend you seal it with Clear Shield Advanced water base decorative concrete sealer, giving the concrete a nice natural satin finish to it.

How cold can it be when I stain my basement?

2009-12-21T09:53:00.000-06:00

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Q. - Does the concrete need any special care if the weather is cold? Will the concrete staining drying time need to be adjusted or should I use space heaters? I am staining my basement. Thanks

Hello Beth,

A. - If the weather is cold, then yes it could take longer for drying times. However, if you have the ability to keep the room temperature regulated as you suggest then it shouldn't be too much concern. Bare in mind that you have to consider both the air temperature and concrete surface temp. just be sure that you let the concrete dry completely between stages.

What You may consider doing is to use the heaters to warm the basement to nice and cozy while you are cleaning it and allowing it to dry.

Turn off the heaters prior to and while applying the stain so as to not have any hot spots, but still a nice warm room and floor.
After the stain has completely dried, then you can turn the heaters back on while neutralizing and mopping the residue and allowing it to dry.
Then again, turn off the heaters prior to and during sealing. Allow the sealer to dry completely.
Then you can again turn on the heaters and bring the room up to nice and warm in order to apply the wax.
Remember that all products have a minimum application temp of 40 degrees F.

I hope this helps.

How Long Before I Can Stain? Should I Seal?

2009-12-08T10:26:00.002-06:00

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Q. - How long should I wait before staining new exterior concrete? Is a particular type best for exterior? This is for a sidewalk we will drive our Ranger on. I do not plan to seal it, will it hold up.

Hello Sandy,

A. - You should wait for 28 days, or until the concrete has cured to one uniform color, whichever comes first.
Concrete Acid Stain such as Concrete Camouflage brand of stains, are permanent stains. Such as wood stain is to wood. It is the best to use.
The concrete stain will hold up fine without the concrete being sealed. However, the surface of the concrete will still be exposed to the elements and traffic which will eventually wear away at the concrete's surface. As the stain is a surface treatment, if the surface of the concrete wears away, then the concrete stain will go with it. If you don't expect allot of traffic or harsh elements then the stain should last for many years and possibly a lifetime without the need for any maintenance. If you expect allot of traffic or harsh weathering, such as harsh sunlight or acid rains, etc., then you may want to reconsider sealing it. With the new Clear Shield Advanced by Concrete Camouflage, you get the natural colors with a satin finish.

Camouflage Concrete Patches When Using Concrete Stain

2009-11-30T11:17:00.001-06:00

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Q. - I am interested in applying concrete stain to an existing garage floor that is porous. I have applied a concrete patching/leveling substance to several areas. The substance has dried a different color than my existing concrete. Is this a problem? Thanks

Hello Bill,

A. - Patching almost always stains a different color than the concrete slab. Unless you decide to finish resurfacing the entire floor and then stain it, you need to make a small sample test board. You can use plywood or even stiff cardboard. Trowel on some of the patch material you used on the concrete and allow to cure out for a day or so, until it has cured to one uniform color. Stain the test board, doing a section of 1 coat and a section of 2 coats, as well as a section of the stain diluted with water 1:1. Also do a small test section on the slab of concrete in an out of the way place, like a closet or corner. After you have allowed the concrete stain to dry completely, washed off the residue and apply the sealer to the test board and allowed to dry. Then you can wash down the test area on the slab and allow it to begin to dry. Once the test area has dried down to being just damp, you can compare the test board to see which is closer.

If none of the patches blend well enough then you can try using a different stain color, or using multiple colors either in conjunction with scoring in a pattern that will itself also help camouflage the areas, or just by using a light color first, allowing to dry and then misting a darker color over.

Let us know if you need further assistance.

What about cracks?

2009-11-17T09:14:00.001-06:00

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Q. - I Have a couple of concrete slabs I would like to stain that were poured a couple of months ago. Of course, they have cracked, is there concrete patch that you recommend that will be able to stain or will not stick out too much when stained?

Hello Robert,

A. - If you have hairline cracks only (too small to stick a nickel or dime into), then you should leave them alone. The sealer should seal them off and they will only ad character to the slab.

If they are larger cracks and must be filled then be aware that any patch material will stain differently from the concrete. Therefore the best course of action is to try out a few different patch materials that you can buy locally, to see which is a closer match, or which can have a second coat applied to bring it to a closer match.

You will do this by making small sample test boards. You can use plywood or even stiff cardboard. Trowel on some patch material and allow to cure out for a day or so, until it has cured to one uniform color. Stain each test board, doing a section of 1 coat and a section of 2 coats on each, and also a small test section on each slab of concrete. After you have allowed the concrete stain to dry completely, have washed off the residue, applied the sealer to the test boards, and allowed them to dry, then you can wash down the test areas on the slabs and allow them to begin to dry. Once the test areas have dried down to being just damp, you can compare the test boards to see which will work best.

Flaking Sealer on Concrete Stain Floor

2009-11-09T12:30:00.002-06:00

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Q.- My floor is stained and has the acrylic finish on it. At the entry door from outside it is flaking in an area about 2x3 with some other areas. How do I fix that? It looks terrible.

A.- When sealer flakes it is usually either because the concrete was not dry enough when it was applied, there is a current moisture issue, or because the stain had not been properly neutralized before applying the sealer. The following procedure will cure whichever it was. However, if there is an existing and ongoing moisture issue then it should be addressed as well.

Important: Be sure to read all labels on all products, including warnings, before opening and/or using.

In order to take care of the sealer flaking. First strip any wax with Simple Green or a Commercial Wax Stripper. Allow to completely dry.

Next, ensure you have plenty of ventilation and turn off all heat sources and or pilot lights as well as any gas of course. Then use a stiff straw scrub brush on a broom handle (you can purchase one at Concrete Camouflage if you can't find one local, as most places don't carry them) it is very important that you use a stiff straw scrub brush, they are hard to find, but an absolute necessity. I can't stress the importance of the brush enough. Stiff and Straw. Not a straw push broom, a brush.

Anyway, pour some Xylene (this is very flammable) or a Good Citrus Type Stripper onto the concrete and let it sit until the sealer is softened, keeping it wet and moving around and redistributing the Xylene or Stripper as needed. Then pour some more Xylene or Stripper on and begin to scrub the sealer until it reliquifies completely, adding more if needed (don't walk in it). Then use a painters shield or wide scraper ( a painters shield works best) to scrape the sealer into a pile and use a square shovel to scoop it up and place it into a bucket to be carried out. You do not have to get all the sealer up but you should try to get as much as you can. Again, don't walk in it.

Allow it to dry completely. Usually a couple hours or so. Reapply your first coat of sealer. Allow to dry until not sticky. Apply a second coat of sealer. Allow to cure as recommended.

Apply a thin coat of our Top Shield floor wax with a Lamb's wool applicator and a paint pan. Allow to dry about an hour or so. Apply a second thin coat of Top Shield floor wax. Allow to dry overnight.

The floor will now be more beautiful, more scuff resistant, and less slippery than before, and should never flake again so long as there is no moisture issues and the floor/wax is maintained properly. When the floor does start to scuff or dull, simply clean, allow to dry, and apply a fresh coat of wax.

Faux Grout Lines When Concrete Staining

2009-10-30T09:29:00.005-05:00

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Q. - When staining a concrete floor is it better to score the concrete or use 1/4 inch tape to create faux grout lines?

Hello Michael,
A.- Scoring the lines will look more realistic. It gives it the separation and the 3D effect to look more real. Just be sure to score them only a 1/16th" to 1/8" deep. If you cut deeper into the concrete you'll create dirt traps. Here's a link with some quick and simple instructions with tips: http://www.concretecamouflage.com/score_concrete.cfm
Taping the lines does works well also, especially if you don't want to use power tools. The lines will have a flatter look as they have no depth for the 3D effect as the scoring does, though it still looks quite good. The trick to taping the grout lines when concrete staining is to use packaging tape. The packaging tape that is kinda clear but thick, like a heavy duty scotch tape, and has the strings running through it. Be sure to really rub the edges of the tape down well and try to spray the stain more directly down, rather than at an angle, over the taped areas.
I hope this helps.

Finally, we've achieved BlastOff!

2009-10-23T14:47:00.005-05:00

As special thank you to our followers we’re inviting you to join something that we think is awesome - a new web portal site called BLASTOFF!

This is an "Invitation Only" pre-launch period and we are happy to be able to invite you, our supportive followers.
So check it out, and join the fun!

Removing scratches from waxed concrete stain floors

2009-10-23T10:24:00.002-05:00

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Hello Michael,

Q. - How often does the top coat of wax need to be replaced? Also what is the best way to remove animal scratches from one of your waxed floors?

A. - Top Shield mop on floor wax by Concrete Camouflage does not need to be stripped and re-applied like other waxes. Once it needs maintenance, whether it be from scuffing or dulling which usually takes months, to scratching from animals, furniture, etc., simply clean and allow to dry and then apply a fresh coat of Top Shield. This will re-emulsify the wax, thereby effectively erasing or removing any dulling, scuffing, or surface scratching. Typically you should plan on rewaxing every 6 months +/- on higher traffic areas.
You can re-apply Top Shield Floor Wax up to 100 times before you should need to strip it and start over. When you do decide to strip it, use a commercial floor wax stripper which you can usually get from tool and equipment rental stores, or we have been told by the Marines that they use Simple Green. You may want to rent a floor buffing machine to make it quicker and easier, depending on the size of the area to be done.

I hope this helps.

To Seal Stained Floors or Not

2009-10-19T10:21:00.003-05:00

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Hello Pattie,

Q.- If I stained my concrete floor and left it rough, would it look bad? Or have you heard of anyone leaving their concrete floor rough and staining over it and how did they like it?

A. - If you leave it rough as in not sealing it and waxing it then it will have a flat look, still like stone but the color will be flatter, along with the surface remaining porous and easier to damage, scratch and stain with unwanted stains.
Sealing and waxing it not only gives it the marble look, it closes off the pores, thereby protecting the floor while making cleaning and maintenance super easy.
Some do leave their stained concrete unsealed and unwaxed but usually only if it is exterior. Though since Concrete Camouflage released the long awaited Clear Shield Advanced Formula Water Base Concrete Sealer, that has a satin finish when unwaxed, and glossy when waxed, those numbers are diminishing.
Any customers that have done so on Interior Concrete Floors usually do decide to go ahead with sealing and waxing for the look and easy clean.

Paint spots needing Camouflaged

2009-10-15T15:10:00.001-05:00

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Hello Brandi,

We love your product and recommend it to everyone. We stained a whole house floor several months ago. We have a few spots that we got lazy and did not get up all the paint off of the floor before we stained. Is there a way to fix this, can we strip and redo, maybe? Thanks,

If it is just random paint spots and not too many, then the following technique should work fine. For huge areas, let us know and we'll advise as needed.

Strip off the wax using either Simple Green, or a Commercial Wax Stripper. Allow to dry.
Use water color paints, like found in a children's water color paint book set. Mix the colors to match the area that the paint spot is located. Using the water colors, paint over the spot, being sure to feather it out into the surrounding area. Paint on a second coat if needed. Sometimes using a second coat to add highlighting of a different color that is also found on the floor, can help to more naturally camouflage the area as well. (You could also use a shoe polish in the liquid sponge bottle, if the colors match up correctly.)
Allow to dry, and roll on a fresh coat of sealer. This will make the "paint over" look more natural, as it is under the sealer, with everything else.
Allow the sealer to cure, and apply two coats of floor wax. The floor wax will not only protect the sealer and make maintenance an inexpensive breeze, but it will also give the floor added depth and luster, to help finalize the camouflaging technique.

I hope this helps.

Exterior Sealer needs to be stripped and redone.

2009-09-25T10:55:00.002-05:00

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Hello Maurice,

Q.- Please help me, if you can! I just spent three months of planning, pouring ten yards of concrete, stamping it random stone with a stamped brick around the perimeter. Using your stain and hand staining each stone and brick, I have been overwelmed by how it has been looking, especially after I neutralized the acid and rinsing it, it looked awesome. I was led to believe it would look like this, when wet, after I sealed it. Again it was incredibile. Well, I just sealed it with a $23 a gallon concrete sealer from a local store. I think it looks terrible. It repells water, but the colors are too bright, the stones,I didn't color, I expected to be a grey looking slate, are white. It didn"t change the look like it is wet, but it is water proofed. I don't care, I want it to look like it did after I rinsed it. All of my stones looked so much better than they do now.What can I do?

You should strip the sealer with a citrus stripper, xylene, toulene, or C.S.P.-Stripper by Concrete Camouflage. And then reapply a different sealer.

Be Sure To Read And Follow All Labels On All Products, Including All Directions, Warnings, And Otherwise.

Work in sections. Work backwards to avoid walking on it once the stripper has been put on.
Pour on the stripper and allow it to sit until it softens the sealer. Keep the stripper wet - do not allow to dry. Spread it around as needed during saturation stage.
Once the sealer is softened, pour on some more stripper and start scrubbing with a stiff straw scrub brush as found at www.ConcreteCamouflage.com, and after it is fully re-emulsified (reliquified), then either scrape it together with large painters shields and remove with square edge shovels and buckets, or power wash over the side and then clean up.
Allow to dry completely.

Then you should reseal it with a different sealer. We recommend using Clear Shield Advanced - an Advanced Formula Water Base Sealer that was specifically designed for today's decorative concrete and voc regulations, while keeping the end user first in mind. Try a small test area first to be sure you like it before doing the entire area.

Staining Statuary and didn't take

2009-09-20T09:31:00.001-05:00

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Hello Thomas,

Q.- The statuary I stained this weekend didn't take much stain. I scrubbed it thoroughly before application. I can't see any prior-applied sealer,but who knows what is on it. The piece is a 2' tall fluted column. How can I sand, etc., to get it to take a stain?
Thank you

A.- How does it look if you wet it down? I'm thinking that when it is wet then you may see that the stain did take somewhat. If that is the case then by doing another coat or two may get the color where you want it. Sometimes a contaminant that prevents the stain from taking, will be flushed out by the acid in the first staining, thereby allowing the second coat to take.

Also, you can do additional coats to darken it up, so long as it is taking. If you must sand it I would say to use a fine grit either by hand or a belt sander. Another thing, is that if there was a mold release or curing agent present, then that would prevent the concrete stain from taking. If so, then any mold release would definitely have been taken care of with the first coat of stain, though a curing agent would likely still have to be stripped off and/or sanded.

Dealing with Control Joints

2009-09-17T16:36:00.001-05:00

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Hello Kent,

Q.- I am getting ready to stain the concrete slab in a sun porch using products from Concrete Camouflage. The slab is divided into 4 pieces by grooves cut in the floor to control cracking. These cuts are about 3/16 inch wide by 2 inches deep. The slab is 5-6 inches thick.
I plan on cutting some more grooves of the same width and using these with the crack control grooves to create a pattern. These new grooves will be just deep enough to grout. 1/4 inch or so.
My question is, what do I use to fill crack control cuts? I assume there will be movement which would cause grout to crack. Can I use a sanded caulk that matches the grout to fill these grooves? I would use backer rod under the caulk.
I understand that the grouting should be done after the first layer of sealer. Would this be the same for the caulk? This implies that I should use a paintable caulk.

A.- You may want to consider using a "Deco-Seal" type product. It is a two part caulk/epoxy type material that goes between a pool deck and its coping at the edge of the pool. It is usually colored to your specification and then finished with a light sanding for texture and appearance. It looks great, stands up well, and is fairly inexpensive. You can fill the deep joints with the same sand that you are going to hand sift on top of the deco-seal before it dries. The only real negative to deco seal is that it may have to be redone every few years or so in open exterior cases.

You can find it at your local "Contractor" Supply Store(not Home Improvement Store - they won't have it), perhaps through a "Pool Company or Pool Supply Company", or You can check for an Installer to do it for you. They can be found in "The Blue Book" at www.thebluebook.com or in your local directories or papers.

You will finish all your grouting and all sealing. Then you will deco seal very last.

You may also want to consider just filling the deep joints with sand and then grouting them as well. It may work or not depending on how much movement you get in the ground under the concrete. If you don't get much movement, then all the joints will be filled with the same material and they all match. If you get alot of ground movement, then the grout will break out of the control joints and you can then go ahead and deco seal at that time if need be. But you must decide for yourself.

I hope this helps.

www.ConcreteCamouflage.com

800 650 1157

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CustomerService@ConcreteCamouflage.com

Solvent Base Sealer Reseal, and Using Concrete Stencils with Concrete Stains

2009-09-16T10:43:00.000-05:00

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Hello Angela,
Q.- The concrete stain and solvent base sealant looks as though they have faded. I feel I did something wrong, except, it looked great for the first 6 months. Can I restain and then reseal or do I need to take off the sealant and then restain. It still beads up, but looks dull?

A.- It is likely that the solvent base sealer has matted down from traffic. You can clean and reseal. Do a test area first to be sure it is working before doing the entire project.

To maintain the gloss you may want to consider waxing it with Top Shield mop on Floor Wax by www.ConcreteCamouflage.com which is really an Acrylic Finish or Topcoat for high traffic that has better traction and scuff/dull resistance. It is designed of course for use interior though its UV resistance allows for exterior applications on porches, covered patios, and the such that doesn't get allot of standing water. It will be much easier and much less expensive to freshen up from now on if you do...

Q.- ...So I rolled it on with a roller, how many coats do I put on. And how long to dry each coat before the next coat. The concrete is smooth and coarse, it is a front and back porch, so it is both. I love the look, I just want it to shiny, like the driveways I see. Will coarse concrete eventually stop soaking it in and get shiny?

A.- Wait until it is no longer sticky, between coats. Usually a couple hours +/-. After you have added all the coats you intend, do not allow any traffic including foot traffic for 72 hours to achieve the maximum sealer lifespan.

You will add coats until you like the look. The smoother the concrete the less coats that are needed. Very smooth concrete usually only needs 2 coats. The more porous the concrete, the more coats that are needed.

Hello James,

Q.- Does the concrete stencils work well when using concrete stain on existing concrete. Will the stain bleed under the stencil?

A.- The stain will try to bleed under. The best thing is to mist on a few coats spraying from directly above, letting it dry between coats. Avoid doing a saturating coat and/or spraying at an angle.

Q.- Does the stencils work better if used when the concrete is first poured. If so, how to stencil concrete and how would I stain then?

A.- It is much better to stencil concrete when it is fresh poured. The concrete stencils were designed for use with fresh poured concrete originally. After you have bull floated and preferably fresno'd the fresh concrete you can lay the concrete stencils and then lightly roll them down with a texture roller, or lightly fresno down.

Attention: Do Not Bury the stencil! Keep it shallow. Allow the concrete to dry until you can just no longer fingerprint it. Pull the concrete stencils up. Do not walk on the concrete crumbs that fall off the stencils. If the stencils start breaking then hurry it up. If the concrete dries too much you will have to chisel out the concrete and stencils. Anyway, blow off the concrete crumbs with a leaf blower and allow the concrete to cure for 28 days or until it has become one uniform light color, whichever comes first.

After it has cured: Clean the concrete and stain it. The stain will settle into the slightly deeper mortar joints and so the mortar joints will be slightly darker than the stones which will let it look as though the mortar was colored to match the stones but is a bit darker.

Carpet Glue, Sealing Cuts, and Cleaning Concrete

2009-09-15T17:07:00.000-05:00

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Hello John,

Q.- Hello, I have just pulled up all my carpet, and carpet pad. I was wondering what I need to do to prepare it for staining, and if I should do acid stain or acrylic. What do I use to remove all the pad glue, and the various stains from construction, and then which type, acid or acrylic?

A.- Honestly, acrylic stains are only disguised paints which are designed solely to separate you from your cash and nothing more, regardless of what anyone says. If you do decide on acrylics you can make your own which will far exceed any available.

Acid stains are the only Real concrete stains. As wood stain is to wood. If you cannot use acid stains you should forego staining and go to traditional flooring options. You will be much happier. We spend hours explaining to many people how to remove acrylic stains only for most of them to cover the floor with tile or carpet.

Anyway, you must remove all glues and contaminants, including out of the pores of the concrete. To do this you can use a heavy duty glue remover or a mastic remover, a citrus stripper, or Toluene, or Xylene. Scrub and strip the area as best you can. Then use a rented commercial floor sander or a floor buffing machine w/sanding disks to lightly sand and finish out the floor. Then do a final clean and rinse and allow to dry.

Hello Lisa,

Q.- We built a house approximately two years ago and are having finishing issues with the concrete which makes up for approx 4500 square feet of the main floor of our very contemporary home - the floor is riverstone in color, but dull, and I do not believe that it was sealed and I am interested in maintaining it with your wax product as the floor is very dull with no shine. Further the saw cuts were not sealed - Therefore, I wondered what quantity and products you would recommend. Would your sealant work for the saw cuts once cleaned so they do not accumulate food and dirt or so I need to get a different type of sealant for those crevices?

A.- You can seal the entire floor which will fill the cuts and enhance the colors. If you only want to seal the cuts that is fine but they will look better than the rest of the floor. You should seal the entire floor and then wax it as well. It will stay fresh with very little and very inexpensive maintenance. The amount of materials that you will need.....

Hello Lisa,

Q.- One last question - cleaning the concrete as we have lived on it for over a year is a major issue - there are a few paint marks, but I want it cleaned as deeply as possible - what procedure and/or products do you recommend for cleaning before I would go to seal and do you carry them?
Thanks again for all of your help. I am looking forward to getting this started.

A.- Mainly you just need to clean it with T.S.P. and water. T.S.P. or Tri-Sodium-Phosphate is just a really good soap that does really well on cleaning concrete. You can use Xylene to spot scrub any small paint marks.

What we have available is C.S.P. which is Concrete Stain Prep. It is concentrated so you mix it with water for general cleaning. It will remove fresh or recent paint and glues also. C.S.P. is available in a Strong Degreaser / Cleaner which works great for heavy duty cleaning, and a Stripper for spot scrubbing or removing water base sealers and curing agents.

Just be sure to use a stiff straw scrub brush as it will work way better than anything else. The brush is available through us and is usually not available locally. Other tools you will need is a paint roller with handle and of course the roller cover for applying the sealer. You will need a Lamb's Wool applicator and a paint pan for applying the wax.

Stamped Concrete, Concrete Countertops, and Cinder Blocks.

2009-09-15T11:12:00.001-05:00

Ask a Pro:

Hello Sue,
Q.- Can you stain over stained stamped concrete?
A.- Yes, so long as the sealer has been completely removed or worn away. You can pour water on to test. If it soaks right in then the stain should also, and if it kinda sits there for a while or beads up, then you may have sealer to remove. You should also do a small test with the stain in an out of the way place to be sure.

Hello Andy,

Q.- A friend and I have cast a concrete concrete counter-top, and are not satisfied with the color. I've suggested staining the concrete, but wanted to ask you if you've had any experience using your stains on counters, and have had any luck with it.

A.- Acid stain, especially Concrete Camouflage artist grade line of acid stain works really well with concrete countertops. Actually we sell quite a bit of stain for countertops.

You should cast a small sample piece if you can to test the color(s) on to ensure you like it before staining the real thing. Especially since they are already colored which will the change the final color and effect of the stain.

Hello Phil,

Q.- I have exterior cinder block walls that I want to stain-can I do it??

A.- You need to ensure that there is no paint, sealer, or other contaminant on the surface or in the pores. Other than that we have seen excellent results with cinder blocks. You may want to stain it only and forego sealing leaving it as a vertical surface in it's natural flat state, or seal it with the New Advanced Formula water base satin finish sealer - Clear Shield Advanced by Concrete Camouflage, but you decide.